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Burgundy Duck

A brace of ducks dangled from a nail hammered into the porch beam as Lila regaled me, on an icy night right after New Year’s, with tales of the Swamp Witches, six accomplished women dedicated to hunting and to each other. For more than a decade, these ladies have gathered a couple of times each year out at Ward Lake Hunting Club, a 6,500-acre preserve running right along the Mississippi River. They eschew newfangled duck boats, favoring canoes to haul their decoys and gear. Eyeing the sky from beneath the brims of their chic tartan-banded hats, these experienced hunters can call a mallard by its wing action. They aren’t pantywaists. Lila is what you might call a spitfire, an avid fox hunter and competitive show jumper all of about five feet tall, with a fiery mane, emerald eyes, and a wicked sense of humor. She has trained her seven-year-old retriever, Tuff, to do many things, from stopping dead in his tracks at her command to tossing a biscuit posed upon his nose into the air before gobbling it up. One dinner, in the course of telling a tale about a previous season’s hunt, Lila slapped the table for emphasis and said “kennel-up” as part of the story. With that, Tuff instantly bounded up on the table, sending wineglasses flying. We all about fell out of our chairs with laughter as Tuff stood baffled on the dinner table in a puddle of Burgundy. This recipe is dedicated to the Swamp Witches: Allison, Susan, Kate, Lind, Leigh, and Lila; I have fallen under their spell.

Cooks' Note

To learn more about the Swamp Witches, visit www.swampwitches.com.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4

Ingredients

2 (1-pound) wild ducks, dressed, or 8 (4-ounce) duck breasts
Salt
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup red wine, preferably Burgundy
2 shallots, chopped
2 bay leaves
2 cups chopped white mushrooms
Freshly ground black pepper
Melba toast, for serving

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the ducks in a large pot, cover them with water, and season the water with salt. Simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes. Drain, remove the ducks, and pat them dry.

    Step 2

    Return the pot to the stove, add the butter, and melt over medium-high heat. Add the ducks and cook, turning occasionally, for 15 minutes or until brown on all sides. Transfer them to a plate and set aside to cool. Remove the skin, discard the bones, and shred the meat.

    Step 3

    Add the flour to the pot and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the broth, wine, shallots, and bay leaves. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until the mixture is slightly thick and beginning to bubble. Return the duck meat to the pot and cover. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 hour. Discard the bay leaves.

    Step 4

    Serve warm heaped on Melba toast.

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