Braised Summer Vegetables with Basil Broth and Vella Cheese Crisps
Like most of the chefs we take to visit Forni-Brown Gardens (see page 164) in Calistoga, Rocco di Spirito was overwhelmed by the bounty. This farm grows impeccable lettuces, tomatoes, herbs, and other produce for some of the most discriminating restaurants in Napa Valley. For his astonishing first course at the 2000 Workshop, Rocco used Forni-Brown beets, baby carrots, tiny tomatoes, and three kinds of basil. This aromatic stovetop braise is an adaptation of the more elaborate dish he made.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
Basil Broth
Cheese Crisps
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast the beets in a covered baking dish until they are tender when pierced, about 1 hour. Peel and quarter them and set aside.
Step 2
For the basil broth: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the basil leaves and blanch for 10 seconds. Drain in a sieve or colander and cool quickly under cold running water. Squeeze as much liquid out of the leaves as you can. Chop roughly. In a blender, combine the chopped basil and 3/4 cup of the hot stock. Puree well, then add the remaining 3/4 cup stock and a pinch of salt and puree again. Strain though a fine sieve into a small saucepan.
Step 3
For the cheese crisps: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat, or lightly brush a nonstick baking sheet with olive oil. Place a 3 1/2-inch pastry ring on the baking sheet and fill it with 2 tablespoons of the grated cheese, spreading the cheese evenly. Lift the ring and repeat until you have used all of the cheese; you should have enough cheese for 6 crisps. If you do not have a pastry ring, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and trace six 3 1/2-inch circles onto the parchment.
Step 4
Bake until the cheese bubbles and turns golden and the butterfat begins to separate, 8 to 10 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway through. Don’t let the cheese brown or the crisps will taste bitter. Working quickly, lift the cheese rounds with a metal spatula and drape them over a rolling pin. It’s okay if they overlap slightly. Let cool, then remove.
Step 5
Cut the carrots in half crosswise, slicing on the diagonal. Put the carrots in a medium saucepan. Add 3/4 cup of the stock, the butter, and a pinch of salt. Simmer uncovered over moderate heat until the carrots are tender when pierced and about 3 tablespoons of liquid remain, about 8 minutes. Add the quartered beets and the remaining 1/4 cup stock and stir for about 2 minutes to warm the beets through. Add the tomatoes, raise the heat to high, and stir until their skins just begin to split; don’t let the tomatoes collapse. Remove from the heat and stir in the chives and olive oil. Taste for salt. Add a squeeze of lemon to brighten the flavor.
Step 6
Warm the basil broth gently; do not allow it to boil. Put 1/4 cup broth in each of 6 warm soup bowls. Divide the vegetables among the bowls. Top each serving with a cheese crisp.
Step 7
Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another medium-bodied white wine with good acidity.
