Bouillabaisse
Although it may seem like a complicated restaurant dish, bouillabaisse has simple origins in the French seaport city of Marseille, where there is an abundance of freshly caught seafood (and an aversion to waste). Julia Child defined it as a “fisherman’s soup, made from the day’s catch,” or from its leftovers. What it actually consists of depends on whom you ask. A pot will typically have at least four types of fish (some insist on no fewer than seven) and a roster of regional ingredients, notably fennel, garlic, saffron, tomatoes, orange zest, and olive oil. Purists would insist on using fish only from the local (Marseille) waters and absolutely no shellfish, while others take a more liberal approach, improvising here and there but basically sticking to the same formula. Most everyone agrees on the required accompaniments: rouille and croutons made from a crusty baguette. The process for making the stock, which is similar to a classic fish fumet (page 55) but with Mediterranean flavors, takes little time; since it gives the finished dish its rich flavor, don’t skimp on this step. Rouille is a variation of mayonnaise (page 95), with spices, garlic, and fish stock for added flavors as well as bread for a rustic texture. It has a tawny color from the addition of saffron (hence its name, which means “rust” in French).
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
For stock
For rouille and croutons
For stew
Preparation
Step 1
Prepare fish Follow the instructions on pages 120–121 to fillet the fish (or have the fishmonger do this, giving you the head and bones); then skin the fillet (see note). You should end up with 3 to 4 pounds of fish fillets and 2 to 3 pounds of bones and heads. Cut the bones crosswise into 4-inch pieces and the fish into 2- to 3-inch pieces (make them uniform so they cook evenly). For the marinade, stir together 2 tablespoons Pernod, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; pour over the fish, turn the pieces to coat, then cover and refrigerate for 1 to 3 hours, turning the fish again halfway through. (Do not marinate longer than 3 hours or the texture of the fish will start to deteriorate.)
Step 2
Make stock Combine the fish bones and heads, leeks, celery, fennel, orange zest, tomatoes, remaining 2 tablespoons Pernod, wine, bay leaf, and the water in a large stockpot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat so the liquid is at a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes, skimming the foam from the surface with a ladle every so often. Strain the stock by pouring it through a cheesecloth-lined sieve, pressing on the solids with the ladle to extract as much liquid as possible from fish heads and bones (this will add body to the stock). Discard the solids, and strain the stock again (using clean cheesecloth) to remove any remaining solids, without pressing this time. Set the stock aside in a clean pot. Reserve 1/2 cup stock for rouille.
Step 3
Make rouille and croutons Ladle the reserved stock over the bread cubes and let soak for 10 minutes, then squeeze the bread with your hands (save the broth in case you need to thin the rouille). Puree garlic in a food processor or a blender, then add bread, saffron, cayenne, salt, and egg yolk, and puree until combined. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream, mixing until the sauce is emulsified. If it seems too thick—it should be spreadable like mayonnaise—you can thin it with some of the reserved stock. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F. Brush the tops of the croutons lightly with oil, and toast until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
Step 4
Finish stew When you are about ready to serve, return the stock to the stove and add the saffron and potatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, and cook at a rapid simmer for 10 minutes. Continue simmering until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the fish from the marinade to the pot. Cook over low heat (the stock should be at a gentle simmer) until the fish is just cooked through and opaque throughout, about 5 minutes. Remove each piece of fish as soon as it is ready. Taste, and season broth with salt and pepper and a splash (or two) of Pernod, if desired.
Step 5
Serve Ladle broth and potatoes into bowls, and divide fish evenly among servings. Spread some of the croutons with rouille for floating on top, and serve the remaining croutons and rouille on the side. If desired, you can stir some rouille into the broth at the table.
SKINNING A FILLET
Step 6
Lay fillet skin side down. Holding the tail of the fish in one hand, insert a slicing knife with a flexible blade between the skin and flesh. Keeping the knife at a 45-degree angle and cutting toward the skin, slice from tail to head to remove skin; you may need to move the knife from side to side slightly as you cut. You might also need to stop every now and then to get a firmer grip on the slippery skin (or hold with a paper towel).
Bouillabaise Tips
Step 7
To make the stock ahead of time, wait to buy the fish you will use in the stew and ask your fishmonger for scraps of similar fish to use in the stock. Then freeze the stock in tightly sealed containers for up to 2 months and thaw in the refrigerator before proceeding. Or make the stock as instructed (with the fish that will be served in the stew), let cool, and refrigerate overnight in a covered container.
Step 8
If you’re making the stock ahead of time, you can also make the rouille (since it calls for some of the stock, or you could use water instead). Cover and refrigerate overnight, then let it come to room temperature before serving.
Equipment
Step 9
You’ll need to use a pot that is large enough to hold all of the ingredients, with about 3 inches to spare on top. (If you’re not sure, pile the raw ingredients together in the pot before cooking.)
Step 10
To strain the stock, line a fine sieve with cheesecloth; you’ll have to do this step twice, each time with clean cheesecloth. Or pass the stock mixture through a food mill fitted with a coarse disk, then through a cheesecloth-lined sieve.
Ingredients
Step 11
It’s not so important which type of fish you choose, but rather that the fish is as fresh as can be, and that you have a variety, anywhere from four to seven types. Preferably the variety will include contrasting tastes (mild and briny) and textures (firm and flaky). The ones listed here are suggestions; buy whatever is fresh at your local fish market.
Step 12
Traditional recipes for bouillabaisse do not contain any shellfish, but now many versions do. Cockles, which are similar to small clams, cherrystones, or littlenecks, would make a lovely addition, as would mussels.
Step 13
Pernod, an anise-flavored apéritif, reinforces the flavor of the fennel. Pastis is equally appropriate.
