Alegrías
Legend has it that this “happiness” candy got its name in the middle of the sixteenth century, when Fray Martín de Valencia prepared a mixture of puffed amaranth seeds and honey; when the indigenous people tried it, they were so happy they began to sing, dance, and play music like they did in many pre-Hispanic rituals and continue to do in the yearly alegría festival that takes place in Tulyehualco. Alegría remains one of the oldest candies in Mexico, but it is now made with sugar or honey and piloncillo. In the tropical climates of Veracruz, I tried some incredibly crispy ones, which really surprised me because of the humidity of the region; a man who has been making these treats for more than forty years told me that his trick was to add some glucose. This wonderful nutritious and historical candy is shaped into rounds or blocks and is often decorated with nuts, pumpkin seeds, and raisins, as I have done here.
These are best made on days and in locations that are not too humid; if you happen to live in an area where it is always hot, add 2 tablespoons glucose to the honey mixture.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 2 dozen
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the pecans, peanuts, raisins, and pumpkin seeds in a bowl and spread on the prepared pan.
Step 2
Combine the piloncillo, honey, and lemon juice in a medium pot over medium heat and cook until the piloncillo has melted and the mixture has thickened slightly, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the amaranth seeds, stirring quickly to mix everything well. Pour into the pan with the nuts and seeds, and carefully press down with slightly damp hands (so you don’t burn yourself) to compact the mixture.
Step 3
Allow to cool completely, 30 to 40 minutes at least, then invert onto a cutting board. Cut the mixture into the desired shapes with a sharp knife. If it seems to be sticking to the knife, simply dip the knife into hot water, dry, and continue cutting.
Step 4
If you have any leftover alegrías (I doubt you will), wrap them in plastic wrap, place in a tightly sealed container, and store in a cool, dry area for up to 3 weeks.
Amaranth Seeds in Pre-Hispanic Times
Step 5
In pre-Hispanic times, the Aztecs used amaranth seeds to make statues of their gods for ceremonies and rituals, binding them with blood. When the conquerors arrived, they tried to eliminate their use because it conflicted with Christianity.
