“New-Style” Shish Barak
Traditional shish barak are tiny tortellini-like pies with a meat filling that are first baked and then cooked in a yogurt sauce. This “new-style” version of large, individual, coiled pies is inspired by Kamal Mouzawak (for his vegetarian alternative, see the variation). It is an exciting mix of flavors, textures, and temperatures and makes a beautiful presentation. The pastry used in Lebanon, rakakat, is different from fillo—it is softer and more pliable, like a paper-thin pancake—but fillo will do very well. Use the large sheets measuring about 19 × 12 inches that are normally sold frozen; see page 9 for hints on using fillo.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 12 as a first course, 6 as main dish
Ingredients
For the Filling
For the Pastry
For the Sauce and Garnish
Preparation
Step 1
For the filling, fry the onions in the oil until golden, stirring occasionally. Add the ground meat, salt and pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. The filling needs to be well seasoned and strongly flavored as it is balanced with the fillo pastry and yogurt, which are bland. Stir, turning over the meat and crushing it to break up any lumps, until it changes color and the juices have been absorbed. Then stir in the pomegranate molasses and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. In a small pan, fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil, stirring, for moments only, until they just begin to color. Stir them into the meat and let it cool.
Step 2
Cut the sheets of fillo in half, into 2 rectangles that measure about 12 inches × 9 inches, and pile them on top of each other with the long sides nearest to you. Brush the top sheet with melted butter. Put a line of filling (about 3 to 4 tablespoons) along the long edge, to reach to about 3/4 inch from either end, and roll up into a long thin roll. Then shape the roll into a tight coil, creasing it a little as you do, so that the pastry does not tear, and place it on a piece of foil (you do not need to grease it) on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets of fillo and the filling, placing the coils next to each other so that they are held tight. Brush the tops with melted butter.
Step 3
About 30 minutes before you are ready to serve, bake the pies in an oven preheated to 400°F for about 25 minutes, until golden.
Step 4
For the sauce, beat the yogurt with a little salt and the garlic, if using. For the garnish, mix the olive oil and the dried mint.
Step 5
Serve the pies as they come out of the oven. Pour about 3 tablespoons yogurt over each, and drizzle a little of the minty olive oil (about a teaspoon) over the top.
variation
Step 6
For Kamal’s vegetarian filling, fry 4 large sliced onions in 4 tablespoons oil until brown. Add 1 cup pine nuts, salt, pepper, 3 teaspoons of ground mixed spices (cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, cumin), and 1 1/2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses.
