Veal

We've lightened traditional meatballs with veal and added Mediterranean accents to achieve a bright, springtime flavor. Chicken broth and matzo meal take the place of milk and bread crumbs to keep the meatballs exceptionally tender.

If you can't find panko, cut the crust off slices of country-style bread, tear the bread into pieces, and grind it coarsely in a processor. Dry the crumbs in a 250°F oven. Do not use store-bought breadcrumbs, which have too fine a texture and give a less crispy result. What to drink: Either a dry rosé from the south of France or a full-bodied, oak-aged Chardonnay would work here.

An adaptation of Viennese butterschnitzel, these individual meatloaves are incredibly moist and juicy.

As its name implies, this dish was once thought to be worthy of a blue ribbon. Over the years, however, in its overly meaty interpretation at numerous hotel restaurants and wedding receptions, it lost some of its original delicacy. Here, we make the veal and the layers of cheese and ham much thinner, which results in a truly refined version that's not too heavy — and that's equally suitable for dinner parties and simple family suppers.

Grillades The grillades served with Baked Cheese Grits make for perfect comfort food — breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

This recipe serves 4 as a main course after you set aside half of the veal shanks and sauce to make Eggplant and Veal Pastitsio . Otherwise it serves 8. If you will be making the pastitsio, the reserved shanks will give you an extra marrowbone for each serving of braised shanks.

We all have memories either of great or terrible meatloaf meals from childhood. My mom's meatloaf is a fond food memory. It was always moist and juicy, with a touch of Italy from the tomatoes and pecorino Romano cheese. It also passed the test of any respectable meatloaf: it made good sandwiches the next day.

This succulent dish is an adaptation of a recipe that Dario Cecchini, the most famous butcher in Italy, shares with his clients (his shop is in Panzano, near Florence). Vin Santo, Tuscany's celebrated dessert wine, lends its sweet, nutty flavor to the dish. Sautéed spinach would be a colorful side.

In Italian, saltimbocca means "to jump in the mouth." The flavors in this veal dish do just that. To save time, ask the butcher to pound the scaloppine for you.

Top-quality veal really makes a difference in this dish; meat should be cut from the leg for scalloppine.

Harold J. Bigley of New York, New York, writes: "A few months ago I went to a party in The Hamptons catered by Loaves & Fishes in Sagaponack. The veal chops with polenta were outstanding. Could you get the recipe?" Ask your butcher to french (trim the fat from) the bone end of the veal rib chops.

Beef stock (often called brown stock) is no more difficult to make than chicken stock, and just a small amount of it can be used to great effect in all sorts of dishes.

Serve with: Orzo tossed with butter and sliced green onion, and sliced roasted beets.

(Veal Cutlets with Prosciutto and Sage) Although chef Serge Dansereau of Kables at The Regent uses thin slices of veal from a boneless veal loin, he suggests making the dish at home with veal cutlets, which are less expensive and more widely available. If the cutlets you buy are too thick, use the smooth side of a meat pounder to pound them, between sheets of plastic wrap, to less than 1/8 inch thick.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.