Shallot

Fresh muscats are somewhat difficult to find, but they're worth seeking out for their musky flavor. what to drink: A smooth white. Try: La Crema 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($24). The chicken paillards would also be wonderful paired with Robert Sinskey Vineyards 2004 Los Carneros Pinot Blanc, Napa ($18).

We used strongly flavored wild greens because a mild salad would get lost with the rest of the menu. The dressing is a simple and classic vinaigrette.

This recipe is a variation on sole Véronique. We've used tiny Champagne grapes for the sauce — they have extremely delicate skins, so there's no need to peel them.

The grapes and vinegar cook down into a sweet, complex sauce. What to drink: A deep, concentrated red. Try: Rosenblum Cellars 2003 Zinfandel, Richard Sauret Vineyards, Paso Robles ($20).

Bedell Cellars, along with nearby Corey Creek Vineyards, is owned by New Line Cinema CEO Michael Lynne, who has spared no expense in fine-tuning — not to mention set designing: Art from his private collection, including works by Cindy Sherman, Sam Taylor-Wood, Uta Barth, and Sarah Morris, decorates the tasting room. Bedell has been known since 1988 for producing the best Merlot on Long Island: Less California and more Bordeaux in style (softer tannins, nuanced fruit), the Merlot is a delicious match with duck.

In this recipe, a long marinating time allows many powerful ingredients to penetrate the skirt steak: the acid in balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce doesn't just flavor the meat; it also breaks down connective tissues, making the meat tender. Serve this with tabbouleh salad or stewed tomatoes.

This creamy chilled soup will make you hope for an abundance of zucchini in your garden this year. Thin-sliced zucchini blossoms, available at produce markets and specialty foods shops, add a beautiful hint of color while lending texture to the soup's smoothness.

One of my favorite classic bistro dishes is steak Diane, a paragon of quick cooking that finds steak swathed in a cream sauce mightily seasoned with mustard and enhanced with cognac. The next time you feel yourself feeling those bistro pangs, try my take on steak Diane, made with chicken instead of beef, and my version of the traditional sauce with shallots and mustard. Roasted garlic mashed potatoes is a perfect accompaniment; the potatoes will soak up the sauce. Or serve it with fries and an ice-cold Belgian beer.

The aspic will be a deeper shade of red if made with canned tomatoes (see cooks' note, below), but fresh tomatoes will yield a brighter flavor.

This succulent dish is an adaptation of a recipe that Dario Cecchini, the most famous butcher in Italy, shares with his clients (his shop is in Panzano, near Florence). Vin Santo, Tuscany's celebrated dessert wine, lends its sweet, nutty flavor to the dish. Sautéed spinach would be a colorful side.

Roasting the meat uncovered during the last hour allows the sauce to reduce. Serve with the Cauliflower-Leek Kugel with Almond-Herb Crust and steamed asparagus. The brisket can be made two days ahead.

The buttery sauce that coats the crabmeat and the shells is part of the pleasure of this dish; to really enjoy it, dispense with the utensils and just eat the crab with your hands. Serve with a green salad dressed with tarragon vinaigrette and plenty of crusty sourdough bread.

Harold J. Bigley of New York, New York, writes: "A few months ago I went to a party in The Hamptons catered by Loaves & Fishes in Sagaponack. The veal chops with polenta were outstanding. Could you get the recipe?" Ask your butcher to french (trim the fat from) the bone end of the veal rib chops.