Pistachio

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 35 min

This dessert, called sciummette ("little sponges") in Liguria, is the Italian version of the French oeufs à la neige. One look at these fluffy ovals of meringue will tell you where the name comes from.

Blancmange is a jellied molded pudding (similar to panna cotta) that is made with almonds and milk and served cold, often with a fruit sauce. Though it dates back to medieval times, blancmange became part of Jefferson's dessert repertoire after he encountered it during his years in Paris. Following his lead as an innovator, we made this version with pistachios instead of almonds, which gives the pudding a beautiful pale green hue and terrific flavor. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 7 1/4 hr (includes chilling)

Cooking the sea bass in parchment paper is a great technique — it keeps the pistachio topping in place and allows you to brown both the fish and the topping in the skillet (the parchment becomes translucent so you can see the browning. Since Gras is on the West Coast, he likes to use Dungeness crab when he makes this dish. We've substituted jumbo lump crabmeat because it's available year round nationwide.

Dark beer and molasses add rich depth of flavor to this moist and delicious cake.

This is a variation on the Sicilian classic gelo di melone, which is steeped with jasmine flowers. We substituted anise seeds but kept the traditional garnishes of chocolate shavings, pistachios, and whipped cream. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 4 hr (includes chilling)

Begin making this cake one day in advance.

Adapted from Dead Horse Ranch This unusual pâté is made with calves' testicles, also called calf fries. Despite the unique ingredient, bull butter has a milder flavor and more mousselike texture than traditional chicken liver pâté.

Because the oil in the pistachio paste separates from the solids, it is necessary to blend the contents of the entire can of paste in a food processor until it is creamy and light in texture.

Found throughout the Middle East, this shortbread-style cookie remains white after baking. Some people make diamond-shaped or round cookies with this dough, but the ring shapes are more common.

Perfect with a cup of tea, especially a nicely spiced Indian chai.

To ensure you get moist, beautiful-looking apricots, avoid those sold in boxes and bags that you can’t see through. If you buy Turkish apricots, keep in mind that they’re usually sold pitted but whole and, unlike most California apricots, will need to be halved horizontally.

Malta This thin, cookie-like tart with a lattice crust is offered on a feast day that commemorates the birth of the Virgin Mary and the exit of the Turks in 1565.

Baklava (from the Farsi for "many leaves"), a pastry perfected by royal bakers in the sultan's palace in Istanbul, consists of layers of phyllo filled with nuts and spices and drenched in a syrup. It has become a traditional Middle Eastern Rosh Hashannah and Purim treat but is enjoyed at celebrations throughout the year. There are numerous variations of baklava, many a closely guarded secret passed down within families. A walnut filling is more prevalent in the Levant, while pistachios and pistachio-almond fillings are preferred in Iran. Blanched almonds are traditional on Rosh Hashannah to produce a light color so that the year should be dulce y aclarada ("sweet and bright"). Sephardim refrain from serving dark-colored pastries such as those made from walnuts on Rosh Hashannah, which would portend a dark year. Although purists disdain anything except the classic nut filling, some cooks innovated by adding such items as dates and chocolate chips. Hungarians make an apricot version. This very rich treat is usually served in small portions.

"The Garden Restaurant in London's Gatwick Airport Hilton hotel serves a pistachio-crusted pork loin in plum sauce that's just delicious," Pete Koronis of Clayton, Missouri. "I'd really like to try making it."

Chewy crusts are filled with a sweet-tart lime curd and topped with sliced mangoes.