Buttermilk

The cake layers can be wrapped well in plastic and refrigerated for up to 2 days; trim the tops just before assembling.

The cake layers can be wrapped well in plastic and refrigerated for up to 2 days; trim tops just before assembling. The frosting can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Before using, bring to room temperature; beat with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until smooth. The frosting can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Before using, bring to room temperature; beat with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until smooth.

Serve this sherbet with Almond Meringue Wafers (recipe follows).

After cooking the onion rings, keep them warm in a 200°F oven while you finish the remaining batches.

Leftover crème fraîche makes a delicious accompaniment to fruit desserts.

Hard cider has been fermented, so it contains alcohol. It is a traditional ingredient in Normandy, France, but you can substitute dry white wine.

To fry the sage leaves for garnish, place them in hot oil until they start to curl, about 3 seconds; remove with a slotted spoon.

Let dressing sit overnight to meld flavors.

This chilled soup is traditionally garnished with fresh chives. We added the peppery snap of watercress and the tang of buttermilk to give it bite.

This soup can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator; stir it again before serving, as it may separate while it sits. Poblano chiles vary in heat from mild to hot; you may need more or less to taste. If you like, garnish each serving with more cooked corn.

Serve with Hummus Dip (recipe follows).

White bread is known under many names, including pullman, milk dough, pain de mie (bread of the crumb), and just plain old white bread. It has many uses, including dinner and knotted rolls, sandwich bread, burger buns, and hot dog buns. This style of dough is often referred to as milk dough because in most versions the hydration is primarily from fresh milk (or powdered milk and water). These white breads fall into the category of enriched breads, as they are made with the most often used natural dough conditioners: fat (butter or oil), sugar, and milk. These cause the crust to caramelize quickly and, when fermented correctly, give the finished bread a light-as-air quality with a very soft texture. The internal temperature need only reach just above 180°F for rolls and 185° to 190°F for loaves. Because of the enrichments, it is best to bake full-sized loaves at 350°F and small rolls at 400°F, but never at 450°F, as you would with lean hearth breads. The three variations that follow give you some flexibility regarding ingredients. You may substitute powdered milk (DMS) for the liquid milk and vice versa, and you may also substitute in equal measure low-fat milk, buttermilk, or skim milk for the whole milk. Making these substitutions will affect the final outcome slightly in both flavor and texture, so try making the breads with the variations and see which version you prefer (I tend to be a buttermilk guy). You can also freely substitute margarine or shortening or even liquid oil for the butter. Again, the type of fat you use will affect flavor and texture, but they all tenderize the bread. Shortening gives the softest texture, butter the best flavor.