Arctic Char

Yes, fish can be autumnal, too. Fresh wild mushrooms and fennel pollen are the key ingredients in this elegant dish.

The intensity of hot mustard varies. Start with 1 teaspoon, then add more by 1/2 teaspoonfuls to taste. Hot English mustard is a good stand-in if Chinese is unavailable.

We're convinced that red trout is well worth looking for. We love its firm texture, its delicate flavor, and its gorgeous pink flesh, which here contrasts beautifully with the green pesto—an all-purpose sauce that would taste great with just about any type of fish or pasta.

Arctic char, a cousin of salmon and trout, lends itself well to almost any cooking method. We particularly love this versatile fish paired with roasted fennel.

Its firm flesh and assertive taste make arctic char a great choice for the grill. The ground chipotle in the quick marinade gives the fish a hint of smoky heat.

Gravlaks — fish cured with salt, sugar, and dill — is usually made with salmon, but we like the milder flavor of arctic char for this particular dish. Keep in mind before starting to cure your fish that you will need to turn it every 12 hours for a total of 36 hours.

Salmon fillets can be substituted for the char. For a shortcut version of the horseradish cream, just mix 3/4 cup heavy whipping cream with prepared white horseradish to taste.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 40 min

Level up your weeknight fish routine with a crispy, flavor-packed crust.

Crisp-skinned fish isn’t about high heat.

Slow-roasting fish is to cooking seafood what bumper lanes are to bowling: the definition of foolproof—and still pretty fun.