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Tapioca Pearl Kheer

Tapioca pearls and sago pearls are made from two completely different plants, the first from the starchy tapioca/cassava root and the other from the starchy pith removed from the trunk of the sago palm. One originated in the New World, the other in Southeast Asia. Yet the two are endlessly confused. Since their starch is very similar, it hardly matters where cooking is concerned. Indian grocers often put both names, tapioca pearls and sagudana or sabudana (sago pearls), on the same packet. I grew up with this kheer, or pudding. When I came home from school in the middle of a hot afternoon, my mother would have individual terra-cotta bowls of this waiting in the refrigerator. It was very simple and basic, nothing more than milk, sago, cardamom for flavor, and sugar. We called it sagudanay ki kheer, or sago pearl pudding, though it may well have been made with tapioca pearls.

Chapati

A chapati is like a tortilla. Unlike a corn tortilla, it is made out of wheat flour. Unlike a wheat tortilla, it is made out of whole-wheat flour known as ata or chapati flour. You may use a tortilla press or a chapati press (they are almost the same) instead of rolling each one out with a rolling pin. Small thin chapatis (about 5 inches in diameter) are considered much more elegant than large thick ones, though you will find all sizes in the cities and villages of India. Those who eat chapatis daily eat them with everything at lunch and dinner. You break off a piece and enfold a piece of meat or vegetable in it. If you want to spice up the morsel a bit more, you brush it against a chutney or pickle. You could also roll up some food inside a whole chapati, to make a kind of “wrap,” though you would not do this at the table, only with leftovers to make a snack.

Pappadoms or Papar/Papad

Known by different names in the north and south of India, these crisp wafers are an essential part of Indian cuisine, as “something with a crunch” completes a meal in many parts of India. Known as pappadoms in the south and papar/papad in the north, they are generally made out of a split-pea dough that is rolled out into paper-thin round discs and dried in the sun (the desert areas of India are ideal for this). The ones I like best are made of urad dal (page 284) and flavored with peppercorns. You buy them from Indian grocers, but they still need cooking. The traditional way was to fry them in very hot oil for a few seconds, which made them expand into marvelous Frank Gehry shapes. Now I just cook them in the microwave oven. They do not expand as much, but they still take on Zaha Hadid shapes and are wonderfully crunchy without being oily. Make as many pappadoms as you wish, and serve them with drinks or as part of a meal.

Hot Bean Dip

This spicy dip makes a filling snack for a crowd. Serve with stone-ground tortilla chips.

Butternut Squash Puree

Despite all the wonderful varieties of winter squash, I still like butternut best for basic preparations like this one. This smooth puree will add color to your plate and comfort your palate.

Red Onion and Almond-Stuffed Winter Squash

An appetizing preparation, this will invigorate the winter-worn palate.

Soy and Honey-Glazed Winter Squash

A sweet-and-salty glaze gives this squash dish a pleasant Asian spin.

Curried Sweet Potatoes with Green Peas

Serve this with the menu on page 194 or with Fruited Bulgur Salad (page 48) and some sliced bell peppers.

Steamed Broccoli and Cauliflower

I have long enjoyed combining these two cruciferous vegetables. Broccoli takes slightly more time to cook than cauliflower, so it is given a head start.

Curried Sweet Potatoes with Spinach and Chickpeas

I just love sweet potatoes spiced with curry—what a superb fusion of flavors! This and the following recipe will help prove my point.

Zucchini and Goat Cheese-Stuffed Sweet Potatoes

The pleasant bite of goat cheese contrasts deliciously with the smooth sweetness of potatoes.

Spinach and Feta-Stuffed Potatoes

This recipe gives potatoes a Greek-flavored spin. It’s delicious with Warm or Cold Tomato and White Bean Soup (page 15).

Broccoli and Cheddar-Stuffed Potatoes

This is a great main dish for kids and teens who have a taste for broccoli. This one’s a family favorite, because we all like broccoli so much. For an easy meal, serve with tossed salad and corn on the cob.

Mushroom-Stuffed Potatoes

A small amount of light cream cheese gives these stuffed potatoes a rich flavor. Serve them with a big tossed salad with chickpeas or black-eyed peas, and some steamed green beans or asparagus.

Spanish Potato Frittata

Simplicity is at its best in this hearty egg dish. It’s perfect for a cold-weather brunch (see the menu) or as a light dinner dish, served with fresh bread, salad, and orange sections.

Tofu and Mixed Vegetable Wraps

Here’s a superb use for leftovers of Instant Tofu and Mixed Vegetable Stir-Fry. Or do it the other way around: Make the stir-fry especially for these wraps and serve the remainder over rice or noodles the next day.

Soy Scalloped Potatoes

Here’s a deceptively rich-tasting version of scalloped potatoes. It gives you the benefits of soy, minus the bother of making a flour-thickened white sauce.

Leek and Red Pepper Hash Brown Potatoes

If you like leeks, you’re sure to enjoy this dressed-up version of hash browns. Use firm-textured potatoes, such as red-skinned or Yukon gold, rather than mealy ones, for best results. Serve with sautéed soy “sausage,” allowing 2 links per serving, and a salad of mixed baby greens with tomatoes and carrots.

Eggplant Parmigiana Wraps

Here’s an enjoyable way to serve a modified version of eggplant Parmigiana that’s lighter than the more customary eggplant hero sandwich.

Salsa Verde Goat Cheese Wraps

Look for tomatillo salsa shelved near the standard tomato-based salsas. It’s a nice change of pace for serving with tortilla specialties.