Wine

I don’t rent out my house in Italy but I do let friends stay there. The “rent” that I charge is always the same: one book and one DVD. Our collection of both is pretty random, but thankfully someone at some time thought to bring the movie Il Postino, one of my all-time favorites.

Wild boar, called cinghiale, is hunted and sold all over Umbria, so as a born-again Umbrian I would feel as if I were betraying my experience of Italy if I didn’t include this ragù at my restaurant. Cutting the boar is the hardest part of this recipe, and it isn’t hard at all. The ideal is to buy frozen wild boar and cut it while it’s only partially defrosted, when it’s easier to cut.

Court bouillon, the vegetable and herb broth traditionally used for poaching fish, imparts subtle flavor to the fish as it cooks. The bouillon can be made 2 or 3 days ahead. If preparing the fish the same day, make the bouillon right in the poacher.

Chanterais melons, also called Cavaillon, are a delicious alternative to cantaloupes. Look for them at farmers’ markets and gourmet stores.

Almond flour is simply ground blanched almonds—it doesn’t contain any wheat flour. You can make your own by finely grinding 1/2 cup whole blanched almonds in a food processor. The dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month (thaw before using). The custard filling can be made up to 1 day ahead; press plastic wrap directly onto its surface (to prevent a skin from forming), and refrigerate in an airtight container. This sauce can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Reheat over medium-low heat, or bring to room temperature before serving.

Serve with créme fraîche or whipped cream.

This recipe can be doubled or tripled.

For perfectly smooth slices, cut the layered cake with a hot serrated knife. The cake can be wrapped well in plastic wrap and stored in the freezer for up to 3 weeks.

If you cannot find pluots, a plum-apricot hybrid, you can substitute more plums.

Sabayon is the French term for zabaglione, a frothy Italian concoction that can be served warm as a sauce or chilled as a creamy dessert on its own. We added a bit of peach-flavored liqueur to enhance the flavor of the fruit, but the sabayon is just as delicious without.

The steeping liquid needs to chill for at least 4 hours, so plan accordingly.

Bosc pears must be very ripe; Anjou, which are juicier, can be slightly firm. Avoid enamel baking dishes, as they cause the syrup to burn.