Pilaf

Two revered ancient grains in one simple, tasty dish.

This is a flexible recipe that I frequently rely on when I want an easy, nourishing main dish. I vary the combinations each time I make it. See the cooking notes for specifics on cooking grains in this chapter, and pages 110 to 111 for cooking beans, if you choose to use dried beans.

The simplicity of this recipe highlights the aroma and flavor of specialty brown rice. If you don’t want to search for one of these more exotic types of rice, longgrain brown rice will do. This tasty side dish can enhance many meals.

Look for long-grain and wild rice mixes near other rice products on supermarket shelves. Wild rice adds an invigorating, nutty flavor and texture to pilaf.

Boneless chicken breasts team up with chewy nutrient-packed grains, lentils, and greens in this sweet and zesty weeknight meal.

Pilafs may be served at everyday meals but are grand enough for entertaining as well. If you like, you could add a generous pinch of saffron threads to the rice just before you cover it and let it simmer. You could also use chicken stock instead of the 22 cup water.

THIS SABBATH RICE DISH, typical of Provence, reveals the history both of pilau or pilaf, as it is called in French, and of Persian Jews who settled in the area near the Camargue, the rice-growing area of southwestern Provence located on the triangle of land between the two major tributaries of the Rhône River. Jews, first by barge and later by boat, used the river to bring goods here from the Mediterranean. The word and the dish pilau come from Persia, taking various forms as the dish traveled around the world. In India, it became pulao; in modern-day Iran, it is called polo; and in Provence, pelau or pilaf. Rice, and therefore pilaf, traveled with the Jews to Provence, where many Persian Jewish merchants and scholars settled and lived until the end of the fourteenth century or even later. These Jews, who traded rice, cooked it for the Sabbath with fragrant spices like nutmeg, garlic, cumin, cinnamon, and saffron. Some scholars believe that Jews brought saffron to Europe from Asia Minor for their Sabbath rice. The late Karen Hess, author of The Carolina Rice Kitchen, repeatedly told me that Jews first brought rice to the Camargue. In their Inventory of the Culinary Patrimony of France, Philip and Mary Hyman relate that emigrants from the Piedmont paid a dîme of rice to noblemen in the year 1497. And although pilau and riz au safran are no longer particularly Jewish dishes in Provence, they are clearly rooted in the Sabbath tradition. This simple recipe is typically eaten on Rosh Hashanah, alongside a symbolic whole roasted fish with a Sephardic sweet-and-sour greengage-plum sauce.

Quinoa, a grain with a texture like that of couscous, is sold at natural food stores. Serve this side dish with lime wedges.

Porcini mushrooms reinvent a traditional Eastern European pilaf and add oomph. Try it as a meatless main course.

A pilaf enriched with butternut squash, red pepper, and toasted pumpkin seeds is wonderful with Spanish white beans and spinach. It would also be terrific with roast chicken.

Feniger first encountered this fragrant pilaf while visiting her friend Alan Wagner, who cooks at an ashram in India. The pilaf has since become a popular addition to Street's menu. The first thing you'll notice is the tapioca pearls’ gratifyingly chewy, almost slippery texture. Then you'll take in the pop of the mustard seeds, the denseness of the taro, the fresh coolness of the cilantro, and the savor of the peanuts and cumin. The most elusive flavor is that of the dried neem leaves. They’re an optional ingredient—you can leave them out and the pilaf will still be delicious—but they have an interesting astringency.

The color yellow symbolized joy for medieval Arabs, who were cultivating saffron in Spain by 960 c.e. Sephardic Jews were equally inspired by the coveted spice, and golden rice became a holiday and Sabbath tradition. This version, made with basmati rice, is punctuated by caramelized onion, currants, and fried almonds.

Fresh fennel and fennel seeds infuse the couscous with a subtle anise flavor.

For a substantial vegetarian spin on köfte(a kind of Middle Eastern meatball), we beefed up grated zucchini with fresh herbs and mashed chickpeas. The accompanying pilaf, which uses both beets and their greens, is brilliantly colored and gets a joyous crunch from slivered almonds.

Merguez, the spicy lamb sausages of North Africa, are popular throughout France. These nearly labor-free patties are a quick way to re-create them in your kitchen. The sweetness of the raisin couscous contrasts nicely with the meat's deep spice.

Grains and nuts are great at balancing the bitterness of broccoli rabe.