Pilaf

Basmati wins my vote for the best all-around rice because it is easy to cook, incredibly fragrant, and complements so many different dishes. Best of all, it’s so rich in flavor that it needs little enhancement. Before I discovered basmati I used to love to eat butter with my rice. This pilaf is definitely delicious enough to eat on its own, but I especially like it with a sprinkling of chopped scallions. (What can I say—I’m a Crescent City girl.)

Asparagus is something you feel the need to gorge on, rather than finding the odd bit lurking almost apologetically in a salad or main course. The exceptions are a risotto—for which you will find a recipe in Appetite—and a simple rice pilaf. The gentle flavor of asparagus doesn’t take well to spices, but a little cinnamon or cardamom used in a buttery pilaf offers a mild, though warmly seasoned base for when we have only a small number of spears at our disposal.

Before I attended culinary school, my attempts at preparing rice were absolutely disastrous. Most often the final results were more like gloppy oatmeal, at best. The pilaf method I learned at L’Academie de Cuisine was my saving grace, which is why I call this recipe $20,000 Rice Pilaf (that was the cost of a year of school at the time).

So-called wild rice is actually a grain that grows in the Great Lakes region and has been harvested by the Ojibway and Cree Indians for centuries. Because of how long it takes to cook, wild rice is perfect for the slow cooker. Black walnuts, native to the central and eastern United States, have a very different flavor than English walnuts, though the garden variety English walnut can be used in a pinch.

Exactly what makes this rice Spanish has never been clear, but with this collection of tasty Tex-Mex ingredients, it is clear why it’s such a delicious dish. It also easily becomes vegetarian if you omit the shredded meat and stock. Please note that rice prepared in the slow cooker will not retain the shape and individuality of each grain as it would in a rice cooker.

Rice usually serves as a blank canvas for the rest of the dish. But not this one! This traditional rice imparts a beautiful red hue as well as a flavorful punch. Feel free to experiment with the quantity and variety of fresh chiles in the recipe—using or removing the seeds to control the heat as you see fit.

I fell in love with this dish the first time I tried it in New Orleans. The combination of rice, tomatoes, shrimp, chicken, and andouille sausage is the epitome of Cajun cooking. This version isn’t particularly spicy, so make sure to serve it with some hot sauce on the side for more adventurous eaters.

Quinoa (pronounced “KEEN-wa”) is its own little ecosystem, containing all of the essential amino acids that we must obtain through the diet. Put another way, quinoa brings some good nutrients to the table that the body needs to begin repairing itself. Its mild taste makes it a perfect starting point for building a pilaf, which is a Middle Eastern food fest. Pilafs are by definition seasoned dishes, and in this case all of the aromatics have great anticancer properties. About the only thing missing from this exotic, exciting dish is a belly dancer. If only I hadn’t misplaced those tiny finger cymbals …

Surprisingly, this couscous recipe has its origins in Italy. I was in Sicily, deep in the land of linguini, when out came couscous as part of our meal. “Couscous?” I thought. “That’s Moroccan, not Italian.” Well, it turns out that every invading army passing through Sicily left a bit of its cuisine behind. And couscous, despite the exotic name, is actually a tiny, beadlike pasta. I love it because it’s easy to prepare—no huge pots of boiling water necessary, just a little steam or hot broth and, in 10 minutes, voila! It’s also so soft and delicious in the mouth, like a gentle massage. Pistachios are my secret ingredient here. Most people think of them as something you only see at a ballgame or in ice cream, but their buttery texture, great vitamin content, and wonderful pale green coloring make them a great choice anytime. I love to put a dollop of Sweet and Savory Yogurt (page 189) on top of this dish. This recipe works beautifully with a drizzle of Moroccan Pesto (page 186).

Just like every guy needs a great-fitting sport coat, every cook needs a fast way to dress up rice. You can play around with this recipe: Add pine nuts and basil in place of the almonds and parsley, use basmati rice, whatever floats your boat. It’s also terrific with pork, so think of it next time you cook up Double Orange Pork Chops (page 24) or Bobby’s Special Thick-Cut Garlic Pork Chops with Bourbon Glaze (page 87).

Quinoa is an ancient high-protein grain from Peru that has made its way into North American cooking. Here we combine it with vegetables and herbs for a quick and well-rounded meal. Cooking quinoa in broth makes a big difference in flavor.