Burger

I love burgers made from freshly ground meat. If you have access to your own meat grinder, grind up a fresh boneless Boston butt with the onions. If you don’t, don’t worry about it. These burgers aren’t quite as over the top as my Whistler Burger (page 98), but they’re flavorful as hell and a really nice change if you feel like eating something other than beef.

In Italy they don’t eat spaghetti and meatballs. Instead they have what they call polpettini, or little meatballs (page 47). And when they want something bigger, they make polpettone—meatloaf. I figured, if they make little ones and a big one, why not make a medium-size one and throw it on a bun? This size is just right, and if I could have a burger this good every time I wanted one, I’d be a happy, happy girl.

If you want a burger with superior flavor, you need to grind the meat yourself—it’s as simple as that. The process is not only easier than most people think, but also makes the moistest and most flavorful burgers. You’ll need to pick up a meat grinder attachment for your food processor at a kitchen store or have your local butcher grind the meat for you. Buy chuck with about 20 percent fat; if that’s not available, kindly ask your nice butcher to add beef fat to regular lean chuck. Fat equals flavor, and there’s no better place for it than in a burger! Okay, you will also need to mix the meat in an electric mixer. It may sound odd, but an old butcher’s trick is to add a couple tablespoons of ice water to the meat. As the burger cooks, the water steams, making the burgers juicier. With all of this love and attention to the meat, I don’t think it’s necessary to mix a bunch of stuff into it, like chives, chopped onion, or Worcestershire sauce. This meatier burger is as genuine as you can get!

If you’ve cut back on burgers because you don’t want to eat the bun, here’s your solution. These well-seasoned patties get wrapped in a piece of prosciutto, making them extra juicy. Use your hands to combine the meat mixture; you are less likely to overmix this way.

This flavorful tuna burger is fully inspired by the niçoise salad from the Provence region of France. I do make an exception to my “no-add-ins” rule when forming the patties for fish burgers because the fish is generally so lean that it benefits from some additional moisture. Many of the salad’s key components, such as briny and salty capers, niçoise olives, and anchovies (here in paste form), are mixed into the tuna burger itself along with sharp Dijon mustard, sweet shallots, and fresh basil. These ingredients also act as a binder, holding the burger together as it cooks. Roasting the garlic and tomato gives a deep yet mellow sweetness, while fresh lemon juice and zest supply a bright note to the full-flavored aioli. It’s an elegant take on a burger.

This luscious burger is really quite simple. Salmon and dill are a classic pairing, but if you aren’t a fan of dill, try adding a few tablespoons of chopped fresh mint or tarragon in its place. Thin slices of red onion add a nice somewhat sharp note, and thickly sliced cucumber gives the burger a refreshing crunch. Should you feel like experimenting with a different type of bun, pumpernickel rolls or bread would be a great choice.

This burger was a staple on Mesa Grill’s lunchtime menu for years and it still makes a guest appearance from time to time. Tuna is a perfect choice for an alternative burger as its substantial meatiness really emulates that of beef. It also stands up to aggressive seasonings and is the perfect base for the slightly sweet, slightly tangy, slightly spicy pineapple-mustard glaze. The relish isn’t like anything you’ll get at a hot-dog stand; dill pickles, peppery poblano chiles, and tart lime juice make for a fresh, not sweet, crunchy relish.

Hoisin is a sweet yet complex Chinese condiment that you can find in the Asian section of just about every supermarket these days. The hoisin-based barbecue sauce is especially delicious with rich salmon, but it would also be great on beef or turkey burgers. The pickled ginger and cabbage slaw, which contain quintessentially Asian ingredients such as garlic, rice wine vinegar, and toasted sesame oil, are an ideal way to add some fresh crunch to the burger.

I couldn’t do this book without including a blue cheese and bacon burger; the combination of a juicy burger, crisp, smoky bacon, and sharp and tangy blue cheese is just too good. You can top this burger with crumbled blue cheese or you can do what I often do and spoon some hot Blue Cheese Sauce (page 110) over the finished burger. Serve it with warm Homemade Potato Chips (page 98) and extra sauce for dipping; it’s insanely delicious. (See photograph on page 2.)

Cobb salads occupy a delicious middle ground between the decadent (hello bacon and blue cheese!) and the virtuous (lean turkey, and it is a salad after all). Whichever side you land on, there is no denying how awesome the mixture of tangy blue cheese, salty bacon, creamy avocados, ripe tomatoes, and crisp romaine lettuce is. It’s not hard to imagine how good those ingredients would taste not tossed with cubes of cold roasted turkey, but atop a hot and juicy turkey burger. It makes perfect sense to me!

During my travels for the old Food Network show Food Nation, I had the opportunity to go foraging for mushrooms with an expert while in Washington State. I can’t think of mushrooms without remembering that trip. Now I do NOT recommend hunting for your own mushrooms—let’s leave that to the experts—but I do recommend using a variety of what your supermarket has to offer. They may not be technically “wild,” but a blend from your market will still be delicious and, more important, not deadly! I think that any cheddar would pair well with the mushrooms, but if you can find a sharp Tillamook cheddar from Oregon, it would be all the better.

This burger gets its inspiration from Italy’s insalata caprese, which is a simple yet totally delicious layering of fresh mozzarella, ripe tomato slices, and basil leaves. Basically, I just transplant that salad onto a burger. Because it is so simple, it is of the utmost importance that each ingredient be in its prime. That means only the ripest, tastiest tomatoes, the freshest, creamiest mozzarella, and the brightest green basil will do. (If you can find it, make this burger with milky buffalo mozzarella for a delicious and authentically Italian treat.) All it takes to dress this Italian trifecta is a splash of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, salt, and lots of freshly ground black pepper.