Gratin

Roasting the lamb on a large oven or cake rack that's placed over the gratin dish allows its succulent juices to flavor the vegetables. This spring dish is one of my favorite recipes from Bistro Cooking (Workman, 1989), by Patricia Wells.

"This past year, I've enjoyed more opportunities than usual to travel and dine out," writes Tony Solomita of Arlington, Virginia. "Instead of a photo album, I'd like to create an album of recipes from these new favorite restaurants. I'll start with a dessert: the berries with custard sauce from L'Auberge Chez François in nearby Great Falls." For these individual desserts, a light, foamy custard called a sabayon is poured over berries and broiled until just brown.

A spectacular, satisfying side dish that's a quick and easy partner for sausages, grilled steaks or roast lamb.

Butternut is one of my favorite squashes. We often bake a small butternut squash (about 1 pound) at home; we split it lengthwise, seed it, score the flesh with a knife, sprinkle on a little salt, and bake, skin side down, for 1 hour in a 400-degree oven. Excellent in soup and pureed, butternut squash is always welcome at our table. This gratin is quite rich and should be reserved for special occasions, like Thanksgiving.

Canned salmon (with soft, edible bones) and potatoes are good sources of calcium.

This gratin is particularly welcomed on the holiday table by those who love sweet potatoes and hate marshmallows. The cream and butter make this so delicious your guests will lie in bed and remember it happily all year long. You only serve this kind of dish once in a very long while, so the caloric intake is moderated. If your meal has too many sweet potatoes, see the variation for turnip gratin.

For a more elegant presentation, we cut out rounds from the gratin with a 4-inch cookie cutter. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 hr

Carol Waddington of Cumberland, Rhode Island, writes: "I recently attended a function that was catered by Downcity Food + Cocktails of Providence, Rhode Island. The appetizer buffet was incredible — I especially enjoyed the scrumptious artichoke hors d'oeuvre." Serve this with crusty bread to soak up some of the creamy cooking juices.

We used a Microplane rasp (available at cookware shops) to grate the cheese in this recipe. You can use a box grater instead, but the same amount of cheese (1 ounce) will yield less volume. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr

Gratins feature a crust of melted cheese and sometimes breadcrumbs. Serve with good bread and a salad for lunch or a light dinner.

The most commonly found Chinese vegetable is also one of the oldest — bok choy has been cultivated in China since the fifth century a.d. You can find many kinds of bok choy at Asian markets, all differing in shape and size; this recipe works well with any mature variety. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 hr

In France puréed potatoes are mixed with a local cow's-milk cheese known as Tomme Fraîche de Cantal. We've substituted fresh mozzarella — widely available in the States — to give the dish a similar consistency.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.