Frozen Dessert

Every Mother’s Day, I like to put something on the menu in honor of my own mother. Since my mother’s busy career left little time for baking, coming up with a dessert that represents her is sometimes challenging. One Mother’s Day, in need of help, I turned to Caroline, my business partner, and pastry chef Kimberly Sklar for inspiration. They both began to reminisce about a moist chocolate-chip Bundt cake their mothers used to make when they were little. As they compared notes other staff joined in, starting a passionate debate about whether it was best made with mayonnaise or sour cream. Soon they had all worked themselves into a Bundt cake frenzy. With all this emotional attachment to a cake, you’d think that someone out of the group would have a recipe. Alas, no one did, and we were forced to start from scratch. After lots of trial and error with sunken cakes, soggy cakes, and just plain bad cakes, Kim and I managed to re-create a stellar version of the dessert, using only the very best chocolate and substituting rich crème fraîche for sour cream. Even if this decadent dessert wasn’t part of your childhood, once you taste it, it could become a favorite, maybe even something worthy of being passed down to your own children.

After a year of 80-hour workweeks cooking in France, I moved to Boston, where I worked a very civilized 40 hours a week. With so much free time on my hands, I focused my attention that summer on making ice cream sandwiches. I sandwiched lemon ice cream with gingersnaps, coconut ice cream with macadamia nut tuiles, and mint ice cream with chocolate chunk cookies. My friends and neighbors could hardly keep up with the frozen cookie–ice cream combos that filled my freezer. Many summers later at Lucques, local farmer James Birch delivered several unexpected crates of his delicious Santa Rosa plums. We were drowning in summer fruit at the time, and I couldn’t imagine what on earth we were going to do with those extra plums. I remembered that hot Boston summer and decided to purée the plums into a sorbet and sandwich them between chewy molasses cookies. If it’s a truly lazy summer day, you can skip the sandwiching step and serve the sorbet in bowls with the cookies on the side.

Only on St. Patrick’s Day is it imperative that both your ice cream and your cake contain beer. Not your typical chocolate cake, and definitely not as intensely rich as the 1970s Moms’ Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake (page 112), this chocolate-stout cake has an unexpected kick to it. The addition of molasses, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg steers it into the spice cake category, with chocolate undertones and an indefinable depth from the dark, full-bodied stout. For me, the biggest surprise of this dessert is the Guinness ice cream. I’m a vanilla girl all the way, and when chefs use weird ingredients just for the sake of being different, I usually pass. But here the dark beer flavor really works in the ice cream to complement the cake. A touch spicy, it might just cure a hangover.

Long before the Crunchy Ice Cream Pie was famous at Michele’s Pies, it was famous in my hometown of Westport, Connecticut. Whenever my mom would make this frozen treat, I was suddenly the most popular kid in the neighborhood! These are a hit at children’s birthday parties, a Fourth of July gathering, or any other warm-weather celebration. Best of all on those hot summer days, there’s no need to turn on the oven. Serve this pie with a dollop of Whipped Cream (page 193) and a drizzle of Hot Fudge Sauce (page 191).

Why end a dinner party with a cup of coffee when you can end it with mud pie? This coffee ice cream–based pie with an infusion of espresso, highlighted with Fudgy Brownie chunks and a crunchy, sweet Oreo crust, is great at any time of the year. Be sure to eat a light meal so that you have plenty of room for this addictive ice cream dessert!

This basic recipe calls for only six ingredients, but the result is rich and creamy and utterly satisfying. Pair it with any of the cookies in this chapter for a righteous ice-cream sandwich or enjoy it simply on its own.

This ice cream combines two different forms of chocolate for a doubly intense chocolate experience.

This is an ideal ice cream for early summer, when strawberries are at their peak of flavor.

This rich, buttery ice cream is the perfect blend of sweet with a hint of salty. Try it between Peanut Butter–Chocolate Icebox Cookies (page 129) or Brownie Cookies (page 131).

Like an iced latte on steroids, our espresso ice cream is sure to keep you up and running. It’s as potent as it is delicious, so we suggest it for an afternoon dessert and not for late-night consumption.

A little sweet with just the right amount of sour. We love this sorbet sandwiched between Chocolate Walnut Meringues (page 135).

Guests are often surprised by the fresh mint flavor of this ice cream. The trick is adding raw chopped mint after the ice cream is cooled.

This ice cream has a custardlike flavor and texture. The taste improves and mellows if the ice cream is left to sit for a day in the freezer.

I’m including this recipe from my sister’s mother-in-law, Blanche (Whew! That’s a mouthful!), because it is so easy, skips the time-consuming custard-making process of the previous recipe, and tastes awesome! Try both recipes and see which one you like best.

When we were children, we never made homemade ice cream unless we had company. I’m not sure if it was because we were being sociable or if it was because we needed help with the old hand churn. After working that hard, you definitely deserved a big bowl of ice cream! Daddy always added fresh peaches to this recipe because he loved homemade peach ice cream. Feel free to experiment with a fruit you love. I usually make it plain, then put out bowls of peaches, strawberries, bananas, nuts, and chocolate syrup so my guests can top it as they please.

This recipe calls for Carnation evaporated milk, which provides that neutral yet milky taste you want in an ice cream base. Suggestions for flavoring this all-purpose base follow. There is no way to get around making ice cream without having an ice cream maker—at least not if you want to get the best results.

Because of its seductive red color, this granita is the sexiest slushy on earth. It’s incredibly easy to make and requires the simplest of equipment. To take it over the top, serve with whipped cream or, for that Creamsicle effect, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. If blood oranges are not available, you can also use ruby grapefruit, Valencia oranges, pomelos, or Meyer lemons. Tarter citruses will require additional sugar, so taste a bit of the mixture before you freeze it.

This unique combination of ice cream, citrus-infused olive oil, and salt is one of the Creamery’s best-selling sundaes; it was even featured on the Food Network’s show The Best Thing I Ever Ate. It may seem strange, but believe me, it’s really good. The oil congeals as it cools and creates a luscious mouthfeel, while the salt brightens the flavors and provides an interesting crunchy texture. The whipped cream is optional but really balances out the richness of the sundae. Our friend Giuseppe Cagnoni, an artisan food producer in Umbria, inspired this dessert when I tasted his Eturia brand oil infused with bergamot (which gives Earl Grey tea its distinctive taste). You can also try other intensely flavored oils, including orange or lemon oil, citrus-infused olive oil, or even toasted sesame oil.

Lighter than a custard-based ice cream, Chef Rob Wilson’s sorbet makes a refreshing accompaniment to summer berries, grilled peaches, or baked fruit desserts. Or scoop the sorbet into compote dishes and accompany with his Chocolate Sea Salt Cookies (page 185).