Espresso

You can substitute espresso in this recipe with 2 cups very strong brewed coffee, although the flavor will not be as intense.

For as long as I can remember, tiramisù has been my favorite non-pie dessert. This pie has all the rich elegance and sophistication of the beloved Italian treat, plus a flaky pastry piecrust to add yet another element to this layered dessert.

A cocoa shell forms a crisp foundation for two silky-smooth fillings: an even layer of creamy, tangy mascarpone cheese and gorgeous rosettes of espresso-flavored chocolate ganache. The flavors are strong, yet not particularly sweet; if you prefer, you can mix one to two tablespoons of sugar into the mascarpone filling. To produce perfect ganache every time, make sure the mixture is at room temperature before you start to beat it with an electric mixer. Any warmer or colder, and the mixture may seize or become grainy.

Like an iced latte on steroids, our espresso ice cream is sure to keep you up and running. It’s as potent as it is delicious, so we suggest it for an afternoon dessert and not for late-night consumption.

These very thin, very crisp cookies have a strong mocha flavor with just a hint of orange. It’s important to use Dutch-process cocoa, which is richer and darker than plain cocoa. Dutch-process powder is treated with alkali to help neutralize the cocoa’s natural acidity.

These sparkle-edged treats gain flavor from a hefty dose of instant espresso powder, along with a bit of ground black pepper and cinnamon. Don’t be tempted to substitute instant coffee for the espresso powder—the flavor and texture will not be as good.

This is another great example of turning the flavors you like from a raditional dessert into a more modern form. Imagine the elements of tiramisù—ladyfingers, ricotta pastry cream, cinnamon, and coffee liqueur—and figure out the components of a cupcake that will best match up with those flavors. Then, voilà!, you have a new kind of cupcake. We assemble this cupcake without alcohol, but feel free to substitute Kahlúa or another coffee liqueur for the espresso (or in addition to the espresso) to give this dessert an extra punch.

Instant espresso powder gives these drop cookies grown-up appeal. If you’d rather not remove the hazelnut skins yourself, as described below, look for blanched nuts at specialty shops, then toast them (see page 365).

WITH A CHOCOLATE CRUST and a creamy espresso filling, this pie is like a mocha cappuccino disguised as dessert. Here are a few tricks for a successful pie: Make sure the butter and cream for the filling are at room temperature, and remember to scrape the sides of the bowl frequently as you mix. For serving, cut the pie with a knife that’s been dipped in hot water and wiped dry.

Most of my desserts are fairly low-maintenance to assemble, so I hesitated to include the recipe for these in this book. But they are so incredibly irresistible and delicious—imagine a homemade candy bar with a chewy caramel center—that I decided it would be unfair not to. Take care not to overcook the caramel, so it stays soft and chewy and doesn’t become hard and brittle. Investing in a candy thermometer takes away the guesswork and ensures a perfect outcome.

I dare you to stop after just one of these light and airy little treats; they melt on your tongue, leaving just a kiss of mocha flavor behind. Wait for a cool, dry day to attempt these, as humidity ruins the texture of meringues, making them grainy and gummy.

Like Torino and Trieste, Naples is a great caffè town. And in their warm climate, Neapolitans have perfected the art of iced coffee, as exemplified by this blender-whipped refreshment. It is a dessert and espresso break all in one—just the kind of treat to enjoy while engaging in the sport of people-watching at a caffè in Naples.

There’s no way to exaggerate Italians’ deep love of coffee, and nowhere is this more true than in Piemonte, where the caffès are filled at every hour. And however many tazzine of potent espresso one might have gulped down during the day, a true Piedmontese will likely choose a coffee-flavored dessert after supper, be it tiramisù, gelato, or this light zabaglione laced with dark-roasted coffee. This recipe is simple and delicious, whether freshly whipped and warm, or enriched with whipped cream and chilled. Serve with biscotti, crumiri, or over the Torta di Nocciole (on page 158).

This intensely flavored granita is the perfect answer for those who don’t want to choose between a nice macchiato and a sweet finish to the meal. The Grappa Cream adds an elegant, and boozy, touch. Although it has only three ingredients, you need to plan ahead for the granita. It will take about 6 hours to freeze, and you need to fluff it with a fork every hour to ensure the texture is light.

This dessert is layered with toasty, earthy flavors, from the concentrated sweetness of the roasted figs to the nutty brown butter to the chocolate ganache deepened with a touch of coffee. You can ride the sweet-salty wave by sprinkling with a finishing salt at the end, or simply dust with powdered sugar. You can’t go wrong.

We do love our coffee in New Orleans, and we love it strong! Coffee ice cream may be my very favorite dessert, but this runs a close second. It is rich and not too sweet, easy to make, and, because the pôts de crème cook at such a low heat in a water bath, you can make them in pretty, decorative coffee cups and serve them on a saucer.

This granita is a favorite in Italy, where they top it with what seems like an unspeakable amount of whipped cream, which I see many Americans scraping off just after they walk out the door—to the shock of passing Italians. You don’t need to heap it on quite as high, but a dollop of Whipped Cream (page 170) is always a welcome, and sometimes necessary, counterpoint to the strong coffee.

This frozen delight is perfect in the summer when you need a brisk perk-me-up. It combines two of my favorite flavors, coffee and chocolate, in one scoop.

When my father was in the army, he and his bunkmates would eagerly anticipate the care packages that would arrive from home, filled with cookies and cakes. But in lieu of homemade goodies, their Brazilian bunkmate would get sacks of aromatic coffee beans. He’d carefully prepare single, tiny cups of coffee by crushing a few of the highly prized beans between two metal spoons and then drizzling boiling water over them, creating perhaps the most labor-intensive cup of coffee ever. But I’m sure the effort was well worth it. Make sure the espresso you use for this recipe is excellent; your effort will be appreciated as well.