Cold Soup

Ryan Lowder, The Copper Onion, Salt Lake City: "The cantaloupes we get here are really sweet, so we counter that with savory flavors."

This version of white gazpacho, traditionally made with green grapes, is brightened with the addition of green apple.

This recipe is part of the Epicurious Online Cooking School, in partnership with the Culinary Institute of America. To watch it being made, and to learn how to make other Mediterranean classics, check out the video classes.

Since I've spent so many years eating and cooking in Spain, I would be remiss if I didn't include a gazpacho in this book. But alas, this is not your abuela's gazpacho. In this version, peaches, plums, and watermelon all come together in a bright, colorful, chilled soup that is topped with a single seared diver scallop. The tart sour plums allow the sweet plump scallop to feel a little less self-conscious in its summery dress. If you can't find sour plums, substitute sweet plums, preferably golden plums, plus the juice of 2 lemons.

No cream is necessary in this soup, just vegetables and broth puréed to velvety perfection.

Heating tomatoes helps make the cancer-fighting carotenoid lycopene more available to the body. Because lycopene is fat soluble, cooking tomatoes in a little oil helps the body absorb even more of this potent antioxidant.

Serve this no-cook soup straight from the blender when it is still frothy, or well chilled during warmer months. Bright, lemony sorrel makes a nice garnish. If you are unable to find pencil-thin asparagus, trim thicker stalks with a vegetable peeler or paring knife.

Bell peppers offer B vitamins and beta-carotene; beets bring even more beta-carotene, plus folic acid. If the beets come with their greens attached, reserve them to sauté as you would other leafy greens.

Perhaps the best known cold pureed soup, vichyssoise is a simple puree of potato and leeks that is traditionally enriched with cream; adding a bit of buttermilk along with the cream gives this version a pleasant tangy flavor. Here, leeks serve as both an aromatic, replacing the onion, as well as one of the base vegetables. Garlic is typically not used. The amount of stock or water called for is also reduced, since both cream and buttermilk are added. If making the soup for company, buy an extra leek to prepare the Leek Frisée (page 75) for the garnish.

Martha served this gazpacho over tomato aspic in a glass as a portable first course, but the gazpacho can also be served on its own.

This chilled soup is traditionally garnished with fresh chives. We added the peppery snap of watercress and the tang of buttermilk to give it bite.

You can also serve this soup cold or at room temperature. Puree it in batches to prevent overflow (particularly because you do so while it’s hot), if needed. You can stir in a small amount of water to thin the soup after pureeing it, if you like.

This soup can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator; stir it again before serving, as it may separate while it sits. Poblano chiles vary in heat from mild to hot; you may need more or less to taste. If you like, garnish each serving with more cooked corn.

You can use the mushroom broth from this recipe in other soups and dishes as well; it is particularly good in risottos. For a heartier version, add cooked and drained soba or udon noodles, or serve brown rice on the side. This soup can be prepared through step 2 up to 3 days in advance; for best results, store the broth separately from all other items. Proceed with step 3 the day the soup will be served.

We like this soup best when served hot, but it is also delightfully refreshing well chilled.

This soup must be served very cold, so for best results, prepare it a day ahead and let it chill overnight in the refrigerator.

When the dog days of summer arrive, turn to this no-cook chilled soup. It is low in sodium and calories, contains no fat, and is quite refreshing.