Casserole

The following is our own recipe for shrimp De Jonghe, the Chicago specialty. All recipes for shrimp De Jonghe are pretty much the same, the major variable being the amount of garlic used-from one to five cloves, depending on whether you want it to taste like a dainty, ladies' lunch kind of dish or a hearty casserole.

Majorcans love to talk about the quality of their vegetables, and this dish of sautéd eggplant, potatoes and bell peppers in fresh tomato sauce, called tumbet, is one of their favorite creations. We suggest serving it with grilled fish or lamb chops, as Majorcans do.

This recipe is a variation on the classic English dish toad in the hole, which combines Yorkshire pudding batter with English sausage. If desired, you may substitute Canadian bacon for the Irish bacon called for. You will need to sauté the Canadian bacon in 1/4 cup additional vegetable oil because it does not contain the same amount of fat as Irish bacon.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

An old-fashioned pasta dish with a new-fashioned filling. Basil and chives accent the luscious ricotta and feta cheese stuffing in this comforting main course. Conclude supper with fruit and your favorite cookies.

If one large fish is difficult to find, two smaller ones can be substituted.

Anne Macrae is a Scottish neighbor in Provence who shares my love of simple, big tastes. She served this luscious gratin one spring evening and explained that she devised the recipe when she and her husband, John, lived in an isolated part of northern Provence, in the Drôme. There were no fresh-produce markets nearby, but thanks to neighboring farmers she always had plenty of fresh goat's milk cheese—known as tomme. Her larder was always filled with the meaty black olives from nearby Nyons, and wild herbs were as near as the back door. In summer months Anne prepares the sizzling, fragrant first course with fresh tomatoes, and in the winter months she uses canned tomatoes. That evening she served the gratin in the individual gratin dishes, but I suggested it might be easier to make one huge gratin and pass it around. "I used to do that," she countered, "but people got greedy and never left enough for the other guests!" So controlled portions it is! This dish lends itself to endless variations: Think of it simply as a pizza without the crust. Add julienned bits of proscuitto, a bit of cooked sausage, sautéed mushrooms, or marinated artichokes. It's also a convenient dish when you're alone and want something warm and quick. I always add fresh hyssop, for the Provençal herb's pungent, mintlike flavor blends well with the tomato-cheese-olive trinity.

Here is a rustic, comforting casserole that is very easy to prepare.