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The corn tortilla was first made many thousands of years ago. Today it usually begins with masa harina, a powdery meal made from fresh corn dough that has been dried and ground to a powder. Full of sweet and earthy corn flavor, homemade corn tortillas are very different from store-bought. The moment you pull off the lid from the tortilla warmer or the napkin covering a basket of warm tortillas, a sweet, corn aroma fills the air. Serve these with Chili-Rubbed Skirt Steak Tacos (page 102) or in any recipe that calls for corn tortillas.

I don’t understand why tilapia is not more popular. It has a flaky texture and good and delicate flavor and can be cooked just about any way you’d prepare any other fish. Plus, it’s safely and sustainably fished, widely available, and affordable. I buy and cook quite a bit of it, sometimes because I seek it out specifically, as when I make this recipe. Other times I get it because I request a specific fish and am told that it’s frozen in the back of the store. In these cases, I choose tilapia instead and am never disappointed.

The great bonus about making Slow-Roasted Boneless Short Ribs is that you’ll have leftover meat to spin into this melt-in-your-mouth sandwich, panini-style. It hits the spot when you’re in the mood for some serious comfort food. The Tomato-Onion Chutney is so freakin’ good, you’ll want to put it on everything. For starters, try it as a condiment with Whole Roasted Chicken (page 142).

If you want a burger with superior flavor, you need to grind the meat yourself—it’s as simple as that. The process is not only easier than most people think, but also makes the moistest and most flavorful burgers. You’ll need to pick up a meat grinder attachment for your food processor at a kitchen store or have your local butcher grind the meat for you. Buy chuck with about 20 percent fat; if that’s not available, kindly ask your nice butcher to add beef fat to regular lean chuck. Fat equals flavor, and there’s no better place for it than in a burger! Okay, you will also need to mix the meat in an electric mixer. It may sound odd, but an old butcher’s trick is to add a couple tablespoons of ice water to the meat. As the burger cooks, the water steams, making the burgers juicier. With all of this love and attention to the meat, I don’t think it’s necessary to mix a bunch of stuff into it, like chives, chopped onion, or Worcestershire sauce. This meatier burger is as genuine as you can get!

Billy Cotter devised this delicious meaty sandwich for his vegetarian wife, Kelli, at their restaurant Toast, in downtown Durham.

We’ve come to love Old Bay seasoning for its aromatic flavor. (See photo)

These sweet, delectable scallops are browned and caramelized on the outside, moist on the inside, and ready in an instant.

These scallops are pan-fried, but the effect is very similar to deep-fried. Panko crumbs or flakes are Japanese-style bread crumbs. They’re coarser and more irregularly shaped than regular bread crumbs, and although they look fresh, they’re dry. When used for frying, they absorb less oil and make a lighter, crunchier, more tender and delicate coating that stays crisp longer than ordinary coatings.

This is one of the fastest yet most delectable fish preparations. Flounder is a delicate fish, so you need to use care (a wide spatula helps) when turning it to cook on the second side.

This sandwich was adapted directly from a meal Tom had developed years earlier for Gramercy Tavern. We cure the duck lightly, for about 24 hours, more for flavor than to remove moisture. Then it is cooked verrrrrry slowly, with the fat side down. It is particularly important in this recipe to use a heavy-bottomed pan so that the heat distributes evenly, and to cook the duck over a super-low heat in order to render the fat without overcooking the duck. Once it’s cooked and you let it cool, you can slice it and use it in myriad ways—as an appetizer, in salad, on canapés. Note that because the duck’s been cured, its flavor is now concentrated and a little goes a long way. We pair the duck with caramelized apples and endive, which provide sweetness, acidity, and just the right edge of bitterness. Felling extra-indulgent? Save the pan in which you cooked the duck and toast the bread in the fat!

In steak sandwiches, the meat is usually paired with onions, cheese, or similarly rich flavors. We wanted something lighter and brighter, something, say, that a person might opt for at lunchtime without needing to nap afterwards. And so we use fresh ginger (which we julienne like a vegetable rather than shred, mince, grate, or sprinkle as a spice) and cucumber, both very refreshing. While Black Chile Mayonnaise (page 177) does add a touch of richness, this is still a very light red meat sandwich.

Let it not be said that we didn’t warn you: this is a five-napkin sandwich, tasty and light but also juicy and messy, making it great outdoor summer fare. When buying the ingredients, remember that fresh tuna should be deep red, so if it’s turning brown or gray don’t buy it. Playfully sweet and hot, peppadew peppers are perfect for the marinade; if you can’t find them, substitute pickled cherry peppers so that you retain sweetness in addition to bite. Placing it on the cutting board with the raw side up and cutting from the top down keeps the tuna from falling apart when you cut it . . . no promises from us that it will be as considerate when you bite into it a few minutes later!

Ripe figs are delicious right off the tree, but in this recipe, I’m applying a touch of heat just to make them that much more tender.

Easter is a real family holiday for Italians, and lamb was our usual fare for Easter supper—usually a leg or a crown roast. When it’s not Easter supper, though, I usually go for the smaller portions and simplicity of separate chops, as in this recipe. Rosemary and garlic are the perfect companions to lamb, and the paste below is a wonderful way to season the meat with a minimum of effort. This combo also works superbly with any cut of lamb; just double the quantities for a full rack, or triple them for a leg.