Grilling

Have you ever tried a beer-can chicken recipe? That’s when a whole chicken is perched atop a beer can and set on the grill, so the beer steams from the can and keeps the sitting bird from drying out. The results are tender and moist, but sometimes the flavor is washed out; and if the chicken falls over it can be a mess. Loaf-Pan Chicken is a dummy-proof alternative to beer-can chicken, although the technique is not as gimmicky. You simply set the bird in a loaf pan and place it, pan and all, on the grill. The loaf pan captures all the juices and increases the humidity surrounding the chicken. The result is tender and moist meat every time, and best of all, the flavor is full and undiluted.

This is one of the most popular menu items at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q and has been a staple in Decatur, Alabama, since Big Bob first started selling his ’Q in 1925. Most folks raised in North Alabama have firmly believed since childhood that barbecue sauce is white. Where did the rest of the country go wrong? The simple technique for cooking the chickens has not changed for more than eighty years, and the ingredients can be listed on one hand: salt, pepper, basting oil, and, of course, that creamy, tangy, peppery white sauce. An all-hickory fire on a closed brick pit is the only other necessity for duplicating the authentic Big Bob flavors. The type of oil used for basting has changed through the years. Big Bob used whatever oil was most easily available to baste the chickens as they cooked, including rendered lard. Excess fat was cut off the pork shoulders and heated in a pot until the lard liquefied. The rendered lard was stored in metal “lard buckets” until needed. No matter what type of oil is used, the chickens still taste fantastic.

Sometimes it’s good to buck tradition. This recipe breaks away from the creamy cold potato salad and tests the theory that “everything is better on the outdoor grill.” This recipe, which I originally created for SOUTHERN LIVING magazine in 2009, answers the question with a resounding “Absolutely!” Grilled Potato Salad starts with traditional ingredients such as potatoes, onions, mayonnaise, and mustard but takes an unfamiliar twist by utilizing a complex dry rub, which adds a vibrant punch of flavor. This unique recipe will draw raves served hot off the grill but is also good eatin’ out of the fridge the next day.

Traditionally barbecue involved cooking the toughest and largest cuts of meat—the cuts that nobody else wanted. Often when beef is butchered, scraps of meat are left piled on the cutting board. Some view this pile of discards as waste; others envision dinner. So it is with these beef skewers. For this preparation you can use beef chunks left over from any of the cuts in this chapter: tenderloin tips, top round chunks, tri-tip scraps, and more. By adding vegetables to the skewer, you can stretch a small amount of beef to serve an entire family. The marinade recipe figures prominently and fondly in my memories of the days before I joined the Big Bob Gibson family. When visiting my future in-laws Don McLemore (Big Bob’s grandson) and his wife, Carolyn, I was treated to beef kebabs in this wonderfully balanced marinade. The sweet ginger and soy flavor is as good on veggies as it is on meat. I added the mustard horseradish sauce to take this recipe to the next level.

The beef tenderloin is a major muscle that hangs between the shoulder blade and the hip under the rib cage. Because the tenderloin does very little work, it is the tenderest part of the cow. Weighing an average of six to eight pounds, the muscle is commonly cut into steak fillets, left whole, or cut into tenderloin roasts. No matter how it is prepared, it is considered a succulent deluxe cut, suitable for special occasions and celebrations. Two things need to be done prior to cooking a whole tenderloin. First, the silver membrane, also called silver skin, that covers a portion of the outside of the tenderloin needs to be removed with a sharp knife. Second, to ensure even cooking, the thin tapered tail end of the tenderloin should be folded back on itself and tied with cooking twine to create a long roast of equal thickness throughout. Although a very tender muscle, the tenderloin does not have the flavor depth of many other beef cuts. Too often people obscure its mild flavor with heavy rubs or marinades. Here a mushroom crust amplifies the flavor of the beef without compromising its natural flavors. With such a tender cut and the added flavor depth of the mushrooms, overcooking is the only way you can ruin this dish.

The tri-tip comes from the bottom sirloin, located just forward of the back leg on the outside belly of the cow. This small cut of beef weighs between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds and is two inches thick. In Europe this cut of beef is sometimes referred to as a “triangle steak,” because of its shape. In the past, butchers seldom marketed this obscure cut because there were only two small tri-tips per beef carcass. Typically it was ground or cubed for stews. But because it is lean and inexpensive it has recently become quite popular, especially on the West Coast. One of the most popular items at a California cookout is the beef tri-tip. Telling a Californian that grilling a beef tri-tip is not real barbecue may lead to fisticuffs. This cut packs big flavor, but it has a low fat content. For optimum taste, tri-tip is usually marinated and/or seasoned and grilled at a high temperature over direct heat. The tenderness of this cut is optimized by slicing the meat across the grain. This recipe stays true to the flavors of the West Coast.

This expensive cut of beef is a primal cut taken from the upper rib area. A whole rib roast consists of seven ribs and weighs close to fifteen pounds, which is enough beef to feed a party of twenty. More typically this cut is sold as three to four rib roasts or is cut down to single rib-eye steaks. Rib roasts are labeled many different ways at the grocery store, including as “standing rib roast” or “prime rib.” The term “prime” is used very loosely in this case and probably does not mean the meat has been graded “prime” by the USDA. Prime rib roasts have always been popular because of their tenderness and rich beef flavor. Usually the simpler preparation the better for this cut of beef. Many of the popular marinades today compromise the great taste of this cut by masking the natural beef flavor. This recipe uses mild seasoning accents to heighten and not diminish the flavor of this tasty beef roast.

Flank steak is the only steak that comprises a single large muscle. It is located in the underbelly muscles of a cow, between the rib and the hip. This oval-shaped cut ranges from 1 to 1 1/2 pounds and is long, thin, and very fibrous. Select a bright red flank steak that has plenty of marbling. If prepared incorrectly, flank steak is one of the toughest cuts of beef, but when cooked properly it is one of the best-tasting grilled meats. The large, thin cut results in more surface area to form a flavorful bark. The secrets to cooking a great flank steak are grilling quickly over a hot fire and slicing the meat across the grain. One of the most popular ways to flavor meat is marination. However, a marinade doesn’t need to be liquid to be effective; the same effect can be achieved with a dry rub or a paste rather than a highly seasoned liquid. In this recipe a long soak in a blend of fresh herbs and seasonings makes the thin steak explode with flavor.

Here’s a barbecue-style surf and turf! This recipe combines both barbecuing and grilling techniques, with slow-cooked brisket slices wrapped around fresh scallops and cooked on a hot grill. Our tasty way to use up leftover brisket slices was featured on Live with Regis and Kelly in 2007. Serve it hot off the grill as either an appetizer or a main course.

Burnt ends are the charred end pieces and flavorful crumbles that are left in the pooled juices and drippings after a beef brisket has been sliced. I consider them the most flavorful part of the brisket. Usually it’s the early bird who gets the worm, but in the case of brisket, it is the last person in line who gets to scrape the cutting board. Burnt ends have become so popular that people have come up with ways to make more of these flavorful brisket bits.

Through changes in breeding and feed, today’s commodity pork cuts are 16 percent leaner and have 27 percent less saturated fat than those of just fifteen years ago. In my humble opinion, this might be a little too lean. Lower fat means less flavor and moisture within the meat. Regardless, one of my favorite cuts of meat for the charcoal grill is still the pork tenderloin. This lean cut has fewer than three grams of fat for a three-ounce serving; that’s as lean as a skinless chicken breast. Sometimes the pig doesn’t get the love it deserves, you know? To highlight the versatility of pork tenderloin, I served this recipe, inspired by my extensive travels in the Caribbean, the first time I cooked for the James Beard Foundation in New York City. Although I served it as an appetizer right off the grill, it also makes a wonderful main course. It combines some of my favorite Southern barbecue flavors with the traditional acidic punch of the food of the islands.

I was first given the opportunity to cook at the James Beard Foundation in 2003. It was exciting, because it is a huge honor to be invited to cook at the home of James Beard. My wife, Amy, and I, along with her parents, Don and Carolyn McLemore, came up with a simple plan: We would pull our cooker to New York, set up in front of the Foundation, and cook for a party of eighty to a hundred people. Big Bob Gibson’s regularly caters for six thousand to eight thousand people, so this seemed like a slam dunk! In the South it is not uncommon to drive down a city street and see smoke billowing from a portable cooker. Under a pop-up tent with a handwritten sign reading BBQ PLATE $5.00, you can find the most delicious barbecue you have ever tasted. New York City is a different cut of beef. In order to cook on the street you must first make the police department aware of your intentions and obtain a single-day or multiple-day “festival permit,” depending on how long your cooker will stay curbside. This is a tricky process for a bunch of folks from Alabama trying to navigate the system. While waiting for approval we found that the fire department needed to be included in all outdoor cooking discussions. And we couldn’t forget to hire a fire marshal to sit with the cooker overnight: safety first. Although logistics were tedious, the result was flawless. The New York City Police Department met us at the Lincoln Tunnel and gave us an escort to the Foundation. They also blocked off the one-way street in front of the event until we could parallel park at James Beard’s front door. Soon after, we were greeted by the fire department, who were not only concerned with fire safety but also with making our stay in the city pleasant. It was then that we realized we needed to cook more food. For Beard events, it is customary to offer your guests appetizers during the social period prior to dinner service. This is what we served. As always, our logic was, “You can’t mess anything up if you wrap it in bacon.”

The pork tenderloin has a very mild flavor and because of this, it is a very versatile meat. It is often prepared with a strong, flavorful marinade, dry rub, stuffing, or sauce. This elongated muscle usually weighs between three quarters of a pound and one and a half pounds and can be cooked at either hot or low temperatures. The tenderloin is typically barbecued whole and, when done, cross-cut and served as medallions. Smoked Pork Tenderloin with Michigan Cherry Glaze begins with a bath in a rich marinade highlighted by cherry cola. Soy and brown sugar provide the depth of flavor, and the cherry cola adds a fruity punch while the acidity of it works to tenderize the meat. The earthy flavor of the smoked pork tenderloin is finished with a sweet glaze made from Michigan cherry preserves. This recipe was created in 2007 for an ESPN/Kingsford game day matchup when this tenderloin was pitted against Joe Theismann’s Luck o’ the Irish Lamb Chops. It was Michigan against Notre Dame on the field and grill. Here’s the winning recipe.

Above the shoulder of a pig from the neck to the hams lie the pork loins. Pigs are equipped with two meaty loins located on the top sides of the spine. Buying whole loins will not break your wallet or your waistline. A three-ounce serving contains about one hundred fifty calories with six grams of fat. These loins can be smoked whole, divided into smaller roasts (typically two to five pounds), or cut into pork chops. This cut should not be confused with the pork tenderloin, which is much smaller (three quarters of a pound to one and a half pounds) and is located in the loin area but underneath the rib cage of the pig. This recipe combines the charring effect of direct grilling and the slow heat of the indirect cooking process to create a tender roast that retains its moisture. I created this recipe for the National Pork Board a few years back. The Apple Bourbon Barbecue Sauce is a sweet complement to the spicy dry rub and smoked flavors. The dish is a nice change from pork chops, which is the traditional use for this cut of meat.

If a whole pork loin or pork loin roast is too large for your needs or will take too long to cook, loin chops are a great alternative. The following recipe qualifies as a “must cook” pork chop. I first made these chops while tailgating in Jupiter, Florida, at the St. Louis Cardinals’ spring training facility. March is not too early to start grilling, especially when you are sharing the grill with Hall of Fame shortstop Ozzie Smith! This recipe can be made with either bone-in chops or boneless pork loin cut in one-inch medallions. These pork chops feature apple cider brine and a fruity sweet glaze made from applesauce, cranberry sauce, and maple syrup.

Some of my favorite times away from Big Bob Gibson’s have been spent learning the secrets of jerk barbecue in Jamaica. The cooking techniques and flavors of this wonderful Caribbean island are truly unique and magnificent. Scotch bonnet peppers, allspice, onions, garlic, and pimento-wood smoke make Jamaica a barbecue destination. By using these same Caribbean flavors on a pork picnic, which is the lower portion of a pig’s shoulder, authentic Jamaican Jerk can be made at home. If you are lucky enough to visit Jamaica, be sure to get out of the cities and locate any of the well-known jerk shacks scattered over the island. Most Jamaican barbecue joints contain two open-air barbecue pits, one for chicken and another for pork. Cooking pork on the chicken pit is strictly prohibited. A cooking grate made from pimento-wood logs laid side by side is placed directly over a bed of pimento-wood coals; to keep the wood grate from burning, the pitmaster hand turns each log every hour, and the pork or chicken on the cooking grate is covered with a thin sheet of corrugated metal. This simplest of cookers proves that it is not the sophistication of the cooker but the knowledge of the cook that produces the best ’Q! In 2003, my wife, Amy, and I went to Jamaica to cook in the International Jamaican Jerk Style/Southern Barbecue Cook-Off. Cooking teams from all over the world, including Switzerland, Puerto Rico, Germany, England, the United States, and Jamaica, competed in the event. Each team was given the same raw ingredients: two barrel grills, two chickens, two slabs of ribs, two pork butts, and two red snappers. The chickens were fresh and free range. I use the term “free range” with a bit of sarcasm because these beauties were muscled-up and tough. When holding the ribs up to the sky, beams of sunlight penetrated this thin cut of meat (Jamaican ribs: SPF 15). The cut of pork was unlike any I had ever seen. It contained a portion of the shoulder and of the neck, and it even had four ribs attached. Nonetheless, we were all on an even playing field—or grill. We had eighteen hours to prepare our entries and serve them to a group of judges comprised of an equal number of Jamaican and international judges. A “blind” judging procedure was used to score each category. By combining local jerk flavors with cooking techniques learned back home at Big Bob’s, we captured the Grand Championship.

This sandwich came about in our favorite way: by visiting the greenmarket, picking up the cheese, and then meandering through the farmers’ stands to see what fresh offerings might be paired with it. It was June; we came away with beautiful asparagus, red onions, basil, and a rustic bread—all the fixins for an open-faced sandwich on the grill. (If you don’t have an outdoor grill, you can use a grill pan.) Thinking back to the days when cooks in diners put hubcaps atop burgers as they cooked, to steam them a bit, we recommend either closing the grill or inverting a metal bowl over the sandwich to keep the heat in and help melt the cheese. By the way, if you can’t find or do not care for Vacherin, substitute any good melting cheese.

Please do not let the bad bologna sandwiches of your youth deter you from trying this sandwich. Good mortadella is silky, flavorful, and because it doesn’t require aging, usually far more affordable than most artisanal sandwich meats. Here, we balance the smooth texture and rich taste of mortadella with the bitterness of grilled radicchio. The Pistachio Vinaigrette (page 181) is a nod to the classic use of pistachios embedded in the meat.

Pineapple doesn’t quite qualify as Italian, but Nutella (a chocolate-hazelnut spread) is definitely an Italian favorite of cult-like proportions, so this can certainly pass as an Italian-American recipe. Grilling the pineapple enhances its sweet flavor, provides the great grill marks, and of course warms it up, bringing a new level of comfort to this incredibly comforting dessert.