Fry

Soffritto is a combination of sautéed onions, celery, and carrots, and it is the base of much Italian cooking. We start many of our dishes by sautéing these ingredients, and then we have this, a very dark soffritto, that we cook for four hours, after which the vegetables are transformed into a rich, thick paste. We make the soffritto in big batches and use it as a starting point for many of our ragùs, such as the duck ragù (see Gnocchi with Duck Ragù, page 187), the wild boar ragù (see Maltagliati with Wild Boar Ragù, page 185), and the ragù bolognese (see Garganelli with Ragù Bolognese, page 189). We also use it to make a rich contorni—Yellow Wax Beans Stracotto in Soffritto with Salsa Verde (page 260)—that we serve in the Osteria. This soffritto might seem oily, but don’t let that scare you as it’s used to start dishes where olive oil would normally be used. At the restaurant, we chop the carrots and celery in a food processor, but we chop the onions by hand to avoid their becoming a watery purée.

These crunchy thyme-flecked nuts are delicious served with sherry and slices of Manchego cheese.

Any bread is lovely in this buttermilk batter.

The crêpe batter can be made through step 1 up to 1 day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. When assembling the gâteau, do not spread the cream and jam to the edges on the bottom layers, because the weight of the top will push out the filling. The gâteau should be assembled no more than 2 hours before serving.

The crêpes can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated, wrapped in plastic wrap. To reheat, wrap them in foil and warm in a 200°F oven.

For best results, use a heavy-bottomed sauté pan.

Baby spinach is easy to find—either loose at farmers’ markets or prewashed and bagged at supermarkets. If possible, get the curly-leaf (crinkled) type, as it doesn’t shrink as much during cooking as the flat-leaf variety does.

To fry the sage leaves for garnish, place them in hot oil until they start to curl, about 3 seconds; remove with a slotted spoon.

After it has finished cooking, this soup will continue to thicken; thin it with hot chicken stock or water, if desired.