Warm Crispy-Creamy Chocolate “Doughnuts”
Industrial technology is making its way more and more into the pastry kitchen and allowing us to create new textures. Here, the “doughnuts” are made with a creamy ganache. The alginate and lactate work to maintain the shape of the doughnuts, and the Methocel prevents the ganache from running while they fry. The result is a warm creamy ganache encased in a super-crisp panko coating. Having a scale is essential for this recipe.
You can freeze the doughnuts at any point in the process, but it may make the most sense to freeze them after you’ve breaded them. Keep any doughnuts that you don’t plan to fry immediately on a rack set over a pan (don’t cover them). Freeze for 2 hours, then transfer the frozen doughnuts to a freezer bag. They will keep for about 1 month. Don’t defrost before frying.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4 on it¿s own or 8 as part of fourplay
Ingredients
For the Alginate Base
For the Doughnuts
For the Calcium Bath
To Finish the Doughnuts (see note)
To Serve
Preparation
For the Alginate Base
Step 1
Put the water in a blender. Turn it on to medium speed. Add the sodium alginate a few grains at a time so it won’t clump. Once it’s all in, blend on high speed for 1 minute.
For the Doughnuts
Step 2
Put the cream and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Step 3
Mix the sugar and Methocel A16-SG and whisk into the hot liquid. Transfer to a blender and blend on high speed for 1 minute.
Step 4
Put the chocolate in a glass bowl and microwave for 30 seconds. Pour about one-third of the hot liquid into the center and stir from the center out. Repeat, pouring in another one-third of the liquid and stirring. Add the remaining liquid and stir to make an emulsion. Stir in the alginate base and a pinch of salt. Mix until completely homogenous.
Step 5
Transfer the batter to a pastry bag and pipe into mini savarin molds. Alternatively, you could spread the batter into a 9 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet. Freeze overnight.
For the Calcium Bath
Step 6
Bring the water to a simmer. Whisk in the calcium and pour into a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute. Pour into a hotel pan (or a roasting pan) and refrigerate overnight.
To Finish the Doughnuts (see note)
Step 7
Drop the frozen doughnuts into the calcium bath. (If you’ve frozen the batter in a sheet pan, use a 1 3/4-inch cutter to cut out rounds.) Let soak for 5 minutes. Remove and let dry completely on a baking sheet lined with paper towels.
Step 8
Put the panko in a food processor with the salt and pulse a few times to make semi-fine crumbs. Transfer to a shallow bowl.
Step 9
Beat the egg and egg yolk together in a bowl. Add the flour and whisk until smooth.
Step 10
Dip each doughnut into the egg wash, then into the panko. Place on a rack, set the rack over a pan, and refrigerate overnight to dry.
To Serve
Step 11
Heat at least 3 inches of canola oil in a large, deep saucepan to 375°F. Fry the doughnuts, a few at a time, until the coating is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with fleur de sel, and serve immediately.
