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Traditional Refritos

Refritos—refried beans—are one of the most common side dishes in Mexican and Southwestern restaurants. Finding a good rendition, though, is rare. Most places use flavorless canned beans for a base—already a poor start. And they don’t take the time to slowly cook and stir them to infuse the mixture with flavor and texture. The best refritos are made from beans cooked from scratch with many different seasonings so the beans absorb the flavors and the cooking liquid is intense and balanced. Here are two recipes for refritos. The first is for black beans cooked from a dried state, which takes several hours to prepare. The second requires just forty minutes and uses canned black beans that are already cooked as a base.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 8 large servings

Ingredients

8 ounces dried black beans, rinsed 2 or 3 times in cold water and picked over for stones
4 quarts plus 1 cup (more or less) water
1 head garlic, halved
1/2 large white onion
3 teaspoons chipotle puree (page 153)
3 teaspoons tomato paste
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground (page 164)
3 small Roma tomatoes, blackened (page 164), or fire-roasted canned tomatoes, if available
1 jalapeño chile, dry-roasted and stemmed
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 cup vegetable oil, for refrying

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Drain the beans, watching for any rocks you might have missed earlier, and place in a large, heavy pot. Add the water, garlic, onion, chipotle puree, tomato paste, thyme, bay leaf, cumin, tomatoes, and chile, and gently simmer over low to medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, about 2 1/2 hours. Add small amounts of water as necessary to keep the beans covered, but not more than you need or the beans will be watery.

    Step 2

    When cooked, remove from the heat and add the salt. Remove the bay leaf and garlic. Squeeze out the softened garlic cloves from their skins back and return to the pot. In the jar of a blender, add the contents of the pot and puree until smooth.

    Step 3

    To refry the bean puree, in a large, heavy nonstick skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the puree and bring to a rapid boil, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium-high and cook until the beans are a thick, semisolid consistency, about 20 minutes. Adjust the salt, if necessary.

Tacos by Mark Miller with Benjamin Hargett and Jane Horn. Copyright © 2009 by Mark Miller with Benjamin Hargett and Jane Horn. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc. Mark Miller is the acclaimed chef-founder of Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, New Mexico. He has started and owned thirteen different restaurants on three continents from 1979 to 2008. He is the author of ten books with nearly 1 million copies in print, including Tacos, The Great Chile Book, The Great Salsa Book, and Coyote Cafe. Mark currently works in International Culinary Consulting and lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Benjamin Hargett is a travel-loving chef who has cooked in Europe, the Carribean, Mexico, and the United States, where he worked with Mark Miller at the Coyote Café for many years.
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