Sourdough Bread: New York Deli Rye
I grew up on two definitive deli sandwiches: roast beef, chicken fat (schmaltz), and onion; and corned beef, coleslaw, and Russian dressing. Both sandwiches had to be served on onion rye to complete the experience. At least twice a month our family would head out to either Murray’s Deli, Hymie’s Deli, or the Chuckwagon on City Line Avenue (the delis are still there, but the Chuckwagon is long gone), and the big decision for me was which of the two sandwiches I should order. I never tired of either and years later, after emerging from a long vegetarian period, the first meat dish I sought out was a corned beef, coleslaw, and Russian dressing sandwich on onion rye. These days I limit my intake of corned beef, and especially of schmaltz, but I still chronically yearn for those sandwiches. However, I do continue to enjoy onion rye whenever I can get my hands on some, often making it myself.
Recipe information
Yield
makes two 2-pound or three 1 1/2-pound sandwich loaves
Ingredients
Rye Sponge Starter
Final Dough
Preparation
Step 1
Make the starter a day ahead. Mix together the barm, rye flour, and water in a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set it aside. Very lightly sauté the onions in the oil over medium heat just until they sweat. Transfer them out of the pan into a bowl and let them cool until they are warm, not hot. Stir them into the starter, re-cover with plastic wrap, and ferment at room temperature until it bubbles and foams, 3 to 4 hours. Refrigerate overnight.
Step 2
The next day, remove the starter from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough to take off the chill.
Step 3
To make the dough, stir together the flours, brown sugar, salt, yeast, and caraway seeds in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Add the starter, shortening, and buttermilk. Stir with a large metal spoon until the mixture forms a ball (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment), adding in only as much water as it takes to bring everything together into a soft, not sticky mass. Let this sit for 5 minutes so the gluten can begin to develop.
Step 4
Sprinkle high-gluten or bread flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading the dough (or mix on medium-low speed with the dough hook). Add in flour as needed to make a firm, slightly tacky dough. Try to complete the kneading in 6 minutes (4 to 5 minutes by machine) to prevent the dough from getting gummy. The dough should pass the windowpane test (page 58) and register 77° to 81°F. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
Step 5
Ferment at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
Step 6
Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into 2 or 3 equal pieces (they will weigh about 30 ounces for larger loaves and 20 ounces for smaller loaves). Shape them into sandwich loaves (page 81) or bâtards for free-standing loaves (page 73). If you are baking them in loaf pans, lightly oil the pans (8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch pans for small loaves; 9 by 5-inch pans for larger loaves). If you are baking them freestanding, line 1 or 2 sheet pans with baking parchment and dust with semolina flour or cornmeal. Transfer the shaped dough to the pans and mist the tops with spray oil.
Step 7
Proof at room temperature for approximately 90 minutes, or until they have grown 1 1/2 times in size. The dough in the loaf pan should dome about 1 inch above the lip of the pans.
Step 8
Preheat the oven to 350°F for loaf-pan breads, 400°F for freestanding loaves with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Brush freestanding loaves with the egg wash. You can score them, but this is optional. The egg wash is optional for loaf-pan breads. Place the loaf pans on a sheet pan before putting them into the oven (this protects the bottoms).
Step 9
Bake the loaves for 20 minutes, rotate the pans 180 degrees for even baking, and continue to bake for 15 to 40 minutes, depending on the size and shape. The internal temperature should register 185° to 195°F at the center. The loaves should be golden brown all over and make a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom.
Step 10
Remove the loaves from the pans and transfer to a rack to cool for at least 1 hour before slicing or serving.
BREAD PROFILE
Step 11
Enriched, standard dough; indirect method; mixed leavening method
DAYS TO MAKE: 2
Step 12
Day 1: 3 to 4 hours rye sponge starter
Step 13
Day 2: 1 hour to de-chill starter; 6 minutes mixing; 4 hours fermentation, shaping, and proofing; 50 to 60 minutes baking
Commentary
Step 14
The best rye breads are made with a mix of wild-yeast starter and commercial yeast. This is what makes them so flavorful. The addition of onions is optional; the bread is excellent with or without them, but I think the onions are integral to that true deli taste of memory.
Step 15
Some people have never had rye bread without caraway seeds and as a result think that rye tastes like caraway. The caraway seeds are also optional here, and I suggest making this bread with and without them to determine which you prefer. Buttermilk tastes better than milk in this bread, but if you don’t have any on hand, feel free to substitute whole or low-fat milk.
Step 16
You can make these into what is called deli corn rye by proceeding as written and then misting the shaped loaves with water and rolling the tops (or the entire loaf) in medium-grind cornmeal. This gives the loaves a great corn crunch!
BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA
Step 17
New York Deli Rye %
Step 18
(RYE SPONGE STARTER)
Step 19
Barm: 156%
Step 20
White rye flour: 100%
Step 21
Water: 88.9%
Step 22
Onions: 267%
Step 23
Vegetable oil: 22.2%
Step 24
Total: 634.1%
Step 25
(FINAL DOUGH)
Step 26
Rye sponge starter: 139%
Step 27
High-gluten flour: 78%
Step 28
White rye flour: 22%
Step 29
Brown sugar: 4.9%
Step 30
Salt: 2.7%
Step 31
Instant yeast: 1.1%
Step 32
Caraway seeds: 1.1%
Step 33
Shortening: 4.9%
Step 34
Buttermilk: 39%
Step 35
Water (approx.): 14.6%
Step 36
Total: 307.3%
