Shrimp, Pork, and Jicama Turnovers
Certain childhood treats stick with you, and for me these crisp turnovers are a tasty reminder of our life in Saigon. Sister Thien, our cook, and a family friend whom we called Uncle Thu, would make the dough and fill it with this delectable mixture of shrimp, pork, and jicama. Although they were hot right out of the oil, I could barely wait to dive in. My piggishness often led to a burned tongue. These are not easy to find abroad in expatriate Vietnamese enclaves, and I wasn’t able to rediscover the flavor and texture from my youth until I made them myself. For a baked version, substitute this filling for the one in the empanada recipe (page 111). Note that in the central region of Vietnam, bánh quai vac is the name of unrelated rice-or tapioca-based dumplings.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 12 pastries
Ingredients
Filling
Preparation
Step 1
To make the filling, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the shallot is soft and sweet smelling, and the garlic is beginning to turn blond. Add the pork, and use a wooden spoon or spatula to stir and mash the meat into small pieces. Cook for 30 to 60 seconds, until most of the meat no longer looks raw. Add the shrimp, jicama, salt, pepper, and sugar. Cook, stirring frequently for 4 minutes, or until the jicama is tender. Turn off the heat and stir in the scallion to wilt it slightly. Transfer to a small bowl, partially cover to prevent drying, and set aside to cool completely before using. You should have about 3/4 cup. (The filling can be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered in plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Return it to room temperature before using.)
Step 2
If the dough was refrigerated for longer than 1 hour, return it to room temperature before using. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Working on an unfloured or very lightly floured surface, gently squeeze and then roll the dough into a 12-inch-long log. Use a knife to cut the log into 12 pieces. (Halve the log first to easily cut even-size pieces. The tapered end pieces should be cut a little longer than the rest.) Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel to prevent drying. Working with half of the dough pieces at a time, flatten each piece of dough with the palm of your hand. Use a skinny Asian rolling pin to roll the dough into a 3 1/4 to 3 1/2-inch diameter circle, making it just slightly thicker in the middle and rotating the wrapper as you work. (For guidance, see “Forming Wrappers from Basic Dumpling Dough,” steps 4 and 5, page 24.) Set each wrapper aside. A little overlapping is fine; the wrappers should not stick together. Cover to prevent drying.
Step 3
To assemble a turnover, hold a wrapper in a slightly cupped hand. Use a spoon to scoop up 1 tablespoon of filling and position it slightly off-center toward the upper half of the wrapper, pressing down gently and keeping about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of wrapper clear on all sides. As you work, your hand should naturally close a bit more to keep the turnover in shape. Moisten the top rim of the wrapper with water and then bring up the side of the wrapper that is closest to you and firmly press to create a half-moon (see page 26), sealing the rim well and creating a 1/2-inch brim. For extra security, use your thumb and index fingers to form a rope edge (see page 51) or press with the tines of a fork. Place the finished turnover on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the other 5 wrappers before making and filling the 6 wrappers from the remaining dough. Once shaped, keep the finished turnovers uncovered for about 20 minutes (the amount of time it takes to assemble all the turnovers), turning them once so they dry a bit on all sides; this helps the crust fry up nice and flaky. Cover the turnovers with a kitchen towel if they have to wait longer, lest they overdry and lose their seal.
Step 4
Put a paper towel–lined platter next to the stove. Pour oil to a depth of 1 1/4 inches into a wok, deep saucepan, or Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to about 310°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Frying for a long time at a moderately low temperature between 300° and 330°F ensures delicate, flaky results. (If you don’t have a deep-fry thermometer, stick a dry bamboo chopstick into the oil; if it takes 2 to 4 seconds for bubbles to rise to the surface and encircle the chopstick, the oil is ready.) Working in batches of 4 to 6 to prevent crowding, gently drop the turnovers into the hot oil and immediately reduce the heat slightly. They will float to the top after about 15 seconds. Spoon hot oil over the puffy tops 2 or 3 times; this facilitates even cooking. The temperature will drop initially and then slowly rise. You will probably need to gradually lower the temperature to keep it around 330°F. (If you don’t have a thermometer, do the chopstick test a couple of times as the dumplings cook; if bubbles rise immediately to the surface and encircle the chopstick, the oil is too hot.) Fry, turning the turnovers often and pressing them down below the oil level, for about 10 minutes total, or until golden brown. Use a skimmer to scoop them up and transfer them to the platter to drain and cool. Adjust the heat before adding another batch.
Step 5
Allow the turnovers to cool for about 5 minutes before serving. Refrigerate left over turnovers and reheat by frying for about 2 minutes in 1 1/4-inches of oil at 350°F or baking in a 350°F oven, turning midway, for about 12 minutes, or until gently sizzling and hot. The first method refreshes best, but the second one is less hassle.
