Sage Pudding
It was on a visit to La Mozza that I discovered this simple but elegant dessert, budino alla salvia—sweet sage pudding. Fresh sage has always been one of my favorite herbs. We grow it in the garden all summer, and pot the plants and keep them in the sunroom in winter. I use salvia leaves in all kinds of savory dishes, from pasta sauces to roasts—and now I use them in desserts too. To keep its assertive flavor in check, I infuse the custard with sage, then strain out the leaves. Serve the pudding chilled—plain, or topped with a dollop of whipped cream or crème fraîche, or with a biscotto or cookie (such as Fregolotta, page 122).
Recipe information
Yield
makes 6 small puddings (about 3 cups total)
Ingredients
Recommended Equipment
Preparation
Step 1
Stack up the sage leaves and, with a sharp paring knife, slice crosswise into fine threads.
Step 2
Pour 3 3/4 cups of the milk into the saucepan, and drop in the shredded sage leaves. Slit the vanilla bean open lengthwise, scrape the tiny seeds into the milk, and drop in the pod pieces too. Set the pan over medium heat, and bring the milk nearly to the boil, stirring frequently. Turn off the heat, cover the pan, and let the vanilla and sage steep and flavor the milk for 1/2 hour or so.
Step 3
Meanwhile, stir or sift together the sugar, cornstarch, and pinch of salt in a small heat-proof bowl. With a fork, beat the reserved 1/4 cup of unheated milk into the dry ingredients, making a smooth, lump-free paste. In another heat-proof bowl (at least 4-cup capacity), drop all the egg yolks and break them up a bit with a fork.
Step 4
Remove the vanilla pod from the steeped milk, and whisk a cup of the milk into the sugar-starch paste. Scrape all of the warmed paste into the saucepan of milk, put it back over medium heat, and, stirring steadily, bring to a slowly bubbling boil. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, whisking constantly and scraping all over the bottom and sides of the pan, as the milk thickens and the starch cooks.
Step 5
Turn off the heat, and pour or ladle small amounts of the thickened milk into the egg yolks, whisking rapidly, to heat the yolks without curdling (a process called “tempering”). Gradually whisk in about 2 cups of hot milk, then scrape the tempered yolks into the saucepan (with the rest of the milk), and set it over medium-low heat.
Step 6
Whisking all the time, heat the custard just to the boiling point, when bubbles break slowly on the surface. Turn the heat to low, and cook, still whisking and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan (to avoid scrambled eggs!), for 3 minutes or so, until the custard is fully cooked and thickened.
Step 7
Immediately pour it through a sturdy sieve set over a bowl or large measuring cup, to strain out the herb shreds and any lumps, then fill each ramekin or serving glass with 1/2 cup pudding (or more if you like). To prevent a skin from forming, lay a piece of plastic wrap right on top of each hot pudding. Let them cool at room temperature for a few minutes, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours, until thoroughly chilled and set.
