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Rice Pancakes with Shrimp and Scallion Oil

Made of a simple rice flour batter, these dainty and rich rice pancakes are akin to blini. Bánh bèo are eaten all over Vietnam and boast a number of regional variations. They come in sweet (ngot) and savory (man) varieties, and in sizes ranging from 1 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter. They may be served directly from the small ceramic dish in which they are steamed or transferred to a serving platter. This recipe for savory bánh bèo features a classic topping of fragrant bits of briny shrimp, rich scallion oil, and mildly sweet chile sauce. I use small, inexpensive dipping sauce dishes for the molds. Look for them at Asian housewares and restaurant-supply stores and at some Asian markets.

Cooks' Note

For an extra layer of flavor and texture, scatter some Ground Steamed Mung Bean (page 322) or pork cracklings over the shrimp topping.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes about thirty-two 2-inch pancakes, to serve 4 to 6 as a starter

Ingredients

Batter

1 cup rice flour, any Thai brand
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1 3/4 cups water

Shrimp Topping

1/3 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 pinches of salt
1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
Pinch of sugar
2 pinches of white pepper
1/2 teaspoon fish sauce

Sauce

2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 Thai or serrano chile, thinly sliced (optional)
1/4 cup Scallion Oil Garnish (page 314)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    To make the batter, in a bowl, stir together the rice flour, cornstarch, and salt. Make a well in the center, pour the oil and water into the well, and whisk together all the ingredients to produce a thin, smooth batter. You should have about 2 cups. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.

    Step 2

    To make the topping, in a small saucepan, combine the shrimp and salt with water just to cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook for about 8 minutes, or until the water has evaporated. (This intensifies the flavor of the shrimp.) Transfer the shrimp to a small bowl and let cool for 10 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to an electric mini-chopper and process to a minced, fluffy texture. Return the shrimp to the bowl.

    Step 3

    In a small nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the shrimp and stir to combine. Sprinkle in the sugar, white pepper, and fish sauce. Continue to cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes to dry the shrimp, lowering the heat when bits of shrimp pop. The shrimp are done when they look crumbly and are brilliant orange. Transfer to a bowl and set aside until ready to use. (The shrimp may be prepared up 3 days in advance, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)

    Step 4

    To make the sauce, in a small bowl, combine the sugar, vinegar, water, and fish sauce and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste and make any adjustments to create a light, slightly sweet sauce. Add the chile and set aside until serving time.

    Step 5

    Fill the steamer pan halfway with water and place a steamer tray on top. Bring the steamer to a rolling boil over high heat. Nearby have the batter, a ladle, a small knife or metal spatula, and serving plates for holding the pancakes.

    Step 6

    Make the pancakes in batches. Have ready about 8 small dishes, each about 2 1/2 inches wide and at least 1/2 inch deep. Put the dishes into the steamer tray, placing them away from the edge where condensation collects. To set the batter quickly, cover the steamer and let the dishes preheat for 2 minutes. Carefully remove the lid to avoid condensation dripping into the dishes. Give the batter a good stir and ladle it to a depth of 1/4 inch into each dish (about 1 tablespoon batter). Replace the lid and steam for 3 minutes, or until the pancakes are shiny and firm and have a shallow indentation in the center. Reduce the heat to low and wait for the steam to subside before lifting the lid, and then lift it away from you carefully to avoid condensation dripping onto the pancakes. Use metal tongs to transfer the dishes to the counter. Let the pancakes cool for 2 minutes. They will firm up slightly.

    Step 7

    To unmold, dip the tip of the knife (or spatula) in water and run it along the edge of a pancake to loosen it. Use your fingers to pry the pancake gently from the dish, and then place it on a serving plate. Repeat until you have unmolded all the pancakes. The finished pancakes resemble tiny white plates.

    Step 8

    Return the steamer to a boil over high heat. Give the dishes a quick rinse and wipe before returning them to the steamer tray for another batch. Repeat until all the batter is used. When you have filled up 1 serving plate with pancakes, begin with another plate. (The cooled pancakes may be covered with plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for up to 8 hours.)

    Step 9

    To serve, fill the indentation of each pancake with a generous 1/2 teaspoon of the shrimp topping and dot with a generous 1/4 teaspoon of the scallion oil garnish. Serve with the sauce. The best strategy for eating the pancakes is to use chopsticks to scoot one onto a soupspoon and then drizzle on some sauce.

into the vietnamese kitchen.jpg
Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.
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