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Peameal Bacon

4.9

(13)

Image may contain Food Pork and Box
photo by Jennifer May

Even though peameal has nothing to do with the bacon we know and love, many still refer to it as "Canadian bacon." They call it that in Canada, the place on both sides of Quebec—joking, joking....Part of the history of Montreal is an overdramatized opposition to Toronto. Maybe it's hockey, maybe it's the separatist thing, or maybe it's just a friendly rivalry. Regardless, we love Toronto. It's where our favorite butcher, Stephen Alexander, has his shops (Cumbrae's) and it's the national capital of oyster bars (Rodney's, Oyster Boy, Starfish). It's also home to Kids in the Hall, John Candy, the Black Hoof, and, of course, the Saint Lawrence Market, where you can get a peameal bacon bun with maple mustard.

Peameal is not made with peas anymore. Like most aspects of life, ranging from food to plastic, peameal is being taken over by corn. We make our peameal with dried yellow peas crushed in the processor. The purpose of peas or cornmeal is to wick and dry, thus preventing spoilage. You will let the meat brine for a minimum of four full days, ninety-six hours, in the fridge. It is necessary to have a brine injector; they sell them nowadays for under ten bucks in big stores.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    Makes about 4 pounds (1.8 kg)

Ingredients

3 quarts (3 liters) cold water
1 cup (300 g) maple syrup
2/3 cup (150 g) kosher salt
2 tablespoons Prague powder #1 cure (optional)
10 peppercorns
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 bay leaf
4 1/2 pounds (2 kg) boneless lean 
pork loin
1 1/2 cups (215 g) coarse cornmeal or 1 1/2 cups (340 g) dried yellow peas, roughly milled in a food processor

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    1. In a plastic (preferably) container large enough to hold both the brine and the meat, mix together the water, maple syrup, salt, cure, and spices.

    Step 2

    2. Scoop out a scant 1 cup (200 ml) brine, and use it to load the brine injector. Then, inject the loin every 3/4 to 1 inch (2 to 2.5 cm), inserting the needle about 3/4 inch (2 cm) deep. Try to distribute the brine evenly over the loin. Place the loin in the container with the remaining brine, and keep the meat submerged with the help of a plate or an object of a similar build. Cover and refrigerate for 4 full days.

    Step 3

    3. Remove the loin from the brine and pat it dry. Then roll it in the meal of your choosing. Give it a day's rest, uncovered, in the fridge, so the meal and meat form as one.

    Step 4

    4. You have two options on cooking it: you can slice it and griddle it for a minute on each side (for thin slices that is), or you can bake it at 375°F (190°C) for about an hour, or until it has a core temperature of 142°F (61°C), then slice it. I like it the first way, especially when it gets a bit burnt on the edges and I have added a dash of maple syrup that caramelizes a bit toward the end.

Cookbook cover of The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan, and Meredith Erickson.
Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

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