Oysters, Raw and Cooked

Preparation

1. Step 1

   The best-tasting oysters are perfectly fresh, alive, and just out of the water. They taste of the pure vitality of the ocean, and they are best when oceans are at their coldest. As the water warms during the summer months, oysters spawn and their flesh can be creamy and unpleasant. Oysters should be tightly closed when purchased. Store them in the refrigerator in a bag or container that is not airtight, so they can breathe.

   Step 2

   When serving oysters on the half shell, shuck them right before they are to be eaten. Take care when shucking oysters. Protect your hand with a towel or heavy glove, and only use a proper oyster shucker or knife, not a sharp knife. Put a dish towel on a firm surface and place the oyster on the towel with the deep-cupped half of the shell on the bottom. Fold the towel over the front edge of the shell and insert the oyster knife into the back of the shell at the hinge. Twist the oyster knife back and forth while pushing in to pop open the hinge. Once the shell is open, slide the knife along the inside of the top shell, cutting the muscle that holds the two half shells together. Take care to keep the knife in contact with the shell so only the muscle is cut and the flesh of the oyster is left intact and beautiful. Discard the top shell and slide the oyster knife along the inside of the bottom shell to separate it from that shell as well. Pick out any bits of shell and place the shucked oysters on a bed of crushed ice, taking care to preserve as much of the delicious liquor as possible (ice can be easily crushed, in a bag with a hammer or in a food processor).

   Step 3

   I like to serve oysters on the half shell with lemon wedges and a ramekin of mignonette sauce. To make mignonette sauce, mince 1 small shallot and mix with 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons dry white wine or Champagne, and fresh-ground black pepper.

   Step 4

   To cook oysters, first take off their top shells, as you would for raw oysters. To keep them steady, set them on a bed of rock salt in an ovenproof dish. They can be flavored in many ways: with a spoonful of spicy salsa; with herb butter; with garlic butter and breadcrumbs; or with bits of cooked bacon and chives. A simple favorite is to mix chopped shallot, butter, fresh-ground black pepper, parsley, and lemon zest and juice. Put a spoonful on each oyster and bake at 400°F until just firm and hot, 6 to 8 minutes. Serve them right away with fresh bread or croutons.

   Step 5

   Oysters can also be opened on the grill (page 155) and eaten out of their shells, and they can be taken out of their shells raw and fried in fresh breadcrumbs (page 62).