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Moroccan Braised Lamb with Couscous

For Claude Lelouch and other French Jews from North Africa, couscous (a term that refers both to the stew and to the grain) is comfort food. When Suzon Meymy started cooking as a young bride living in Paris, her native Morocco seemed terribly far away, so she wrote to her mother, asking for recipes. “My mother was so unhappy that I was in France, so she sent me cooked chicken and flans. What she didn’t know was that they didn’t travel well, so we couldn’t eat them when they arrived.” When Suzon cooks lamb couscous today, in her small apartment in a Paris suburb, she uses her mother’s techniques. “My mother, who was the couscous-maker of Mogador, spent all her time in the kitchen,” she told me. “I watched her and my sisters cook for every festival in our town. They were exhausted from so much cooking. I saw them falling apart with fatigue.” Suzon, a very good cook, takes the time to make this lamb stew only when her whole family is present. What I like about this amazing recipe for couscous is that the vegetables are not overcooked. Serve the lamb with couscous (see page 270) and a delicious Moroccan squash dish (see page 302)

Cooks' Note

If using a boneless cut of lamb, decrease the braising time by a half hour.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    at least 12 servings

Ingredients

2 shoulders of lamb (about 5 pounds each, including the bone)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 leek, cleaned and diced
2 onions, peeled and diced
4 turnips, halved
4 carrots, peeled and cut into rounds about 1/4 inch thick
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ras el hanout
4 or 5 cloves garlic, diced
4 zucchini, each cut into 4 pieces
1 to 2 tablespoons harissa sauce, or to taste (see following recipe)

Suzon’s Harissa Sauce

1 tablespoon harissa (see page 33)
1 cup couscous broth (see page 270)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 heaping teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 hot Spanish pepper, diced
(about 1 cup)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    The day before serving, season the meat heavily with salt and pepper, and sear it in a frying pan with one tablespoon of the oil. Then preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Put the meat in a pot, add a little water, and braise, covered, for about 2 hours, or until tender. Set aside to cool, and then refrigerate overnight.

    Step 2

    Also the day before serving, heat the remaining oil in another pot, and sauté the leek and the onions. When the onions are translucent, add the turnips, carrots, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, ras el hanout, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, and garlic. Cover the vegetables and spices with water, and simmer, covered, until the carrots are tender.

    Step 3

    The next day, cut the lamb into 2-inch chunks, and put it in the pot with the vegetables. Add the zucchini. Simmer slowly until the zucchini is just cooked but still bright green. Adjust seasonings, and stir in the harissa sauce. (I also serve more at the table, so that people can adjust the heat to their taste.)

  2. Suzon’s Harissa Sauce

    Step 4

    Stir together the harissa, couscous broth, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, cinnamon, and Spanish pepper in a small bowl. Serve with the couscous.

Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous
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