Marjolaine
I’m not a fan of fancy, complicated desserts, but I am a fan of anything delicious—especially when it involves caramelized nuts, chocolate ganache, and Cognac-flavored crème fraîche, as this cake does. True, this recipe requires a few steps to gather the components, but slicing layers of nutty meringue and spreading layers of crackly praline cream never feels like work to me. Like all good things, marjolaine is worth the effort. To make things easy, instead of laborious buttercream, I make a simple crème fraîche–based icing, which adds a distinctive tangy flavor and isn’t so rich. You can make the praline and the meringue days in advance, and the marjolaine should be assembled at least a day before it is served to give the flavors a chance to marry, so you can stage out the preparation. It’s really not difficult to assemble once you’ve gotten the components organized. And I guarantee, when you proudly glide a slick layer of chocolate ganache over the top and then take that first bite, you’ll be congratulating yourself on a job well done.
Before preparing this recipe, see Caramelization Guidelines, page 265.
Recipe information
Yield
makes one 12-inch (30-cm) rectangular cake; 12 servings
Ingredients
Nut Meringue
Praline
Chocolate Ganache
Praline and Vanilla Creams
Preparation
Step 1
To make the nut meringue, preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Coat the bottom and sides of a 12 by 18-inch (30 by 46-cm) baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and line the bottom with parchment paper. Generously grease the parchment paper, then dust the pan with flour and tap out any excess.
Step 2
Rub the toasted hazelnuts between your hands or in a kitchen towel to loosen and remove the skins. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, pulverize the almonds and hazelnuts with the 1 1/3 cups (265 g) sugar and the cornstarch until finely ground, then transfer the mixture to a bowl.
Step 3
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Add the salt, increase the speed to high, and beat until the egg whites form stiff peaks.
Step 4
Gradually sprinkle the ground-nut mixture over the egg whites, folding it in as you go. Scrape the batter onto the prepared baking sheet and smooth with a spatula. Bake until light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely.
Step 5
To make the praline, lightly coat a baking sheet with cooking spray or line it with a silicone baking mat. Spread the 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed skillet and cook over medium heat until the sugar begins to melt around the edges. Using a heatproof utensil, slowly drag the liquefied sugar to the center and stir gently until all of the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel is deep amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Remove from the heat, immediately stir in the chopped almonds, then pour the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and spread it in an even layer. Let cool completely. The praline will harden with cooling.
Step 6
Once cool, break up the praline with your hands. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade or with a chef’s knife, chop the praline into very small pieces. Transfer to a medium bowl.
Step 7
To make the ganache, heat the 3/4 cup (180 g) crème fraîche in a small saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let stand for a minute, then stir until the mixture is completely smooth. Set aside to cool.
Step 8
To make the praline and vanilla creams, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk together the 3/4 cup (180 g) crème fraîche, the cream, 2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar, and vanilla on medium speed until the mixture is stiff but still glossy. Don’t overbeat.
Step 9
For the praline cream, stir 2/3 cup (160 ml) of the whipped crème fraîche mixture into the chopped praline. (The mixture will seem somewhat stiff, but the ingredients will meld and by the time you’re ready to use it, the praline cream will be spreadable.) Set aside.
Step 10
For the vanilla cream, add the Cognac or brandy to the remaining whipped crème fraîche mixture and whisk lightly until firm. Set aside.
Step 11
To assemble the marjolaine, run a knife around the edges of the meringue to loosen it from the pan, place another baking sheet over it, and invert the meringue. Peel away the parchment paper, holding down the meringue as you pull so that it won’t break. (If you do break the meringue, it can be patched together when you are assembling the layers.)
Step 12
Using a serrated bread knife, cut the meringue crosswise (not lengthwise) into 4 even rectangles, each about 4 1/2 by 12 inches (11 by 30 cm). Cover a baking sheet or large rectangular platter with plastic wrap and set one meringue rectangle on top. Spread 3/4 cup (180 ml) of the chocolate ganache over it in an even layer. Cover and refrigerate the remaining ganache.
Step 13
Top the ganache layer with a second meringue rectangle and spread evenly with the vanilla cream. Top with a third meringue rectangle and spread evenly with the praline cream. Top with the last meringue rectangle. Wrap the marjolaine in plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight.
Step 14
To finish the cake, remove the marjolaine and the reserved ganache from the refrigerator. Trim the rough edges of the marjolaine with the serrated knife. Gently warm the ganache over a small pan of simmering water until it’s spreadable, then spread it evenly over the top and sides of the cake.
Step 15
Using the serrated knife, slice the marjolaine crosswise into slabs, dipping the knife blade in hot water and wiping it clean after each cut. Serve at room temperature.
Serving
Step 16
Marjolaine is flavorful on its own, though you might want to offer some lightly sweetened whipped cream (page 239) alongside.
Storage
Step 17
The assembled unfrosted cake can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
tip
Step 18
Some of the components can be made ahead: The meringue can be made up to 3 days in advance and wrapped in plastic. The praline can be made 1 week in advance, chopped, and kept in an airtight container.