Focaccia
The quality of most American focaccia is so poor that I’m surprised it has caught on as it has, being listed by a top food magazine as one of the hot food trends of the new millennium. Its survival and emergence is probably due to the few bakeries that really do it well, showcasing the honeycombed crumb that results from a properly executed rustic dough. Toppings, no matter how creative and flavorful, can never cover for an inadequate crust. This is true for pizza as well as its Ligurian cousin, focaccia. The main difference between them is that true pizza (Neapolitan) has a thin crust, while authentic focaccia has a thicker crust, but not obnoxiously thick as seen in some American renditions. I prefer a thickness of 1 to 1 1/4 inches, with big, open, translucent holes, like a ciabatta or pugliese. There is really only one way to achieve such perfection, and that is through long fermentation by either generous use of pre-fermented dough or by retarding the fermentation process through refrigeration. Either method will get you there, so I offer you two formulas. The results are comparable and demonstrate the possibilities presented by time and temperature manipulation. Following the formulas are some suggestions for variations and toppings.
Recipe information
Yield
makes one 17 by 12-inch focaccia
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Stir together the flour, salt, and yeast in a large mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Add the oil and water and mix with a large metal spoon until all the ingredients form a wet, sticky ball (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment). If you are mixing by hand, repeatedly dip one of your hands or the metal spoon into cold water and use it, much like a dough hook, to work the dough vigorously into a smooth mass while rotating the bowl in a circular motion with the other hand (see page 56). Reverse the circular motion a few times to develop the gluten further. Do this for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and the ingredients are evenly distributed. If you are using an electric mixer, switch to the dough hook and mix on medium speed for 5 to 7 minutes, or as long as it takes to create a smooth, sticky dough. The dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom of the bowl. You may need to add additional flour to firm up the dough enough to clear the sides of the bowl, but the dough should still be quite soft and sticky.
Step 2
Sprinkle enough flour on the counter to make a bed about 6 inches square. Using a scraper or spatula dipped in water, transfer the sticky dough to the bed of flour and dust liberally with flour, patting the dough into a rectangle. Wait 5 minutes for the dough to relax.
Step 3
Coat your hands with flour and stretch the dough from each end to twice its size. Fold it, letter style, over itself to return it to a rectangular shape, as shown on page 138. Mist the top of the dough with spray oil, again dust with flour, and loosely cover with plastic wrap.
Step 4
Let rest for 30 minutes. Stretch and fold the dough again; mist with spray oil, dust with flour, and cover. After 30 minutes, repeat this one more time.
Step 5
Allow the covered dough to ferment on the counter for 1 hour. It should swell but not necessarily double in size.
Step 6
Line a 17 by 12-inch sheet pan with baking parchment and proceed with the shaping and panning instructions on page 162.
Step 7
Loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap (or place the pan inside a food-grade plastic bag). Refrigerate the dough overnight (or for up to 3 days).
Step 8
Remove the pan from the refrigerator 3 hours before baking. Drizzle additional herb oil over the surface and dimple it in. (You can use all of it if you want; the dough will absorb it even though it looks like a lot.) This should allow you to fill the pan completely with the dough to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Add any other pre-proof toppings desired (see page 167). Again, cover the pan with plastic and proof the dough at room temperature for 3 hours, or until the dough doubles in size, rising to a thickness of nearly 1 inch.
Step 9
Preheat the oven to 500°F with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Gently place any pre-bake toppings on the dough (see page 167).
Step 10
Place the pan in the oven. Lower the oven setting to 450°F and bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking the focaccia for 5 to 10 minutes, or until it begins to turn a light golden brown. If you are using any during-bake toppings (see page 167),, sprinkle them on at this point and continue baking an additional 5 minutes or so. The internal temperature of the dough should register above 200°F (measured in the center), and the cheese, if using, should melt but not burn.
Step 11
Remove the pan from the oven and immediately transfer the focaccia out of the pan onto a cooling rack. If the parchment is stuck on the bottom, carefully remove it by lifting the corner of the focaccia and peeling if off the bottom with a gentle tug.
Step 12
Allow the focaccia to cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing or serving.
Shaping Focaccia
Step 13
Drizzle 1/4 cup olive oil over the paper, and spread it with your hands or a brush to cover the surface. Lightly oil your hands and, using a plastic or metal pastry scraper, lift the dough off the counter and transfer it to the sheet pan, maintaining the rectangular shape as much as possible.
Step 14
Spoon half of the herb oil over the dough.
Step 15
Use your fingertips to dimple the dough and spread it to fill the pan simultaneously. Do not use the flat of your hands—only the fingertips—to avoid tearing or ripping the dough. Try to keep the thickness as uniform as possible across the surface. Dimpling allows you to degas only part of the dough while preserving gas in the non-dimpled sections. If the dough becomes too springy, let it rest for about 15 minutes and then continue dimpling. Don’t worry if you are unable to fill the pan 100 percent, especially the corners. As the dough relaxes and proofs, it will spread out naturally. Use more herb oil as needed to ensure that the entire surface is coated with oil.
BREAD PROFILE
Step 16
Enriched, rustic dough; flat; direct or indirect method; commercial yeast
DAYS TO MAKE: 2
Step 17
Day 1: 15 minutes mixing; 3 hours fermentation and panning (Poolish Focaccia: 3 to 4 hours poolish)
Step 18
Day 2: 3 hours fermentation; 20 to 30 minutes baking (Poolish Focaccia: 1 hour to de-chill poolish; 15 minutes mixing; 3 hours fermentation, panning, and proofing; 20 to 30 minutes baking)
Commentary
Step 19
This dough makes great pizza as well as focaccia, but it is a little too slack for stromboli, or rolled and stuffed pizza. A popular hybrid is what can best be called pizza-style focaccia, small round pies that begin as pizzas but are allowed to proof and puff up and are then topped with intensely flavored toppings, rather than the customary cheese and sauce toppings of pizza. See page 167 for examples. The beauty of these, aside from their sheer eye appeal, is that they can be made ahead and served cold or lightly reheated.
Step 20
Like most rustic dough, with hydration in excess of 70 percent, food-processor mixing is a valid and excellent alternative to that described here. See page 55 for instructions on using a food processor.
Step 21
It will seem as though you are using way too much herb oil, but the dough will absorb it all as it bakes. However, if the amount seems a little excessive for your diet, feel free to cut back on how much you apply during the final dimpling stage.
Step 22
One of my favorite variations is raisin focaccia (there is a strong tradition of sweet, or breakfast-style, focaccia in Liguria). To make this, omit the herb oil but add 3 cups or more of raisins during the final 2 minutes of mixing (the more the better—the dough should be dense with them). Use regular olive oil on top in place of the herb oil, dust lightly with kosher salt or coarse AA (sanding) sugar before baking, and prepare yourself for the best raisin bread you have ever had!
Step 23
Some people prefer a crustier, chewier finished product. To accomplish this, reduce the oven temperature to 400°F and bake for 10 to 15 minutes longer.
GRACE NOTE Herb Oil
Step 24
The generous application of herb oil to focaccia will enhance the flavor of the dough more than any toppings. There are many ways to make this oil, and you can make it in any quantity. I try to always keep some on hand for cooking and dipping. You can use either dried or fresh herbs, or a combination. Do not heat the oil, just warm it, and then let the herbs steep in the warm oil, infusing it with their wonderful flavors.
Step 25
Here’s one way to make it, but feel free to substitute your favorite herbs and spices. The olive oil you use does not have to be extra virgin because it will be cooked later, and the subtle flavor of extra virgin, for which you pay so much, will be lost.
Step 26
Warm 2 cups olive oil to about 100°F. Add 1 cup chopped fresh herbs. The herbs may include basil, parsley, oregano, tarragon, rosemary, thyme, cilantro, savory, and sage, in any combination. I recommend lots of fresh basil. (Substitute 1/3 cup dried herbs or a blend such as herbes de Provence, or use a combination of fresh and dried herbs.) Add 1 tablespoon coarse or kosher salt, 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, and 1 tablespoon granulated garlic or 5 to 6 cloves fresh garlic, chopped or pressed. You may also add 1 teaspoon paprika, 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon onion powder, or 1 tablespoon dried minced onions. Store any leftover herb oil in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA
Step 27
Focaccia %
Step 28
High-gluten flour: 100
Step 29
Salt: 2.2
Step 30
Instant yeast: .98
Step 31
Olive oil: 13.3
Step 32
Water: 71.1
Step 33
Total: 187.6
