Éclairs

Preparation

1. Step 1

   To make the pastry cream, sift together the sugar, flour, and cornstarch into a good-size bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together a generous 6 tablespoons (100 ml) of the milk, the egg yolks, and the egg, and then incorporate it with the dry ingredients, mixing well.

   Step 2

   Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and, using the tip of a sharp knife, scrape the seeds into a saucepan with the rest of the milk (1 2/3 cups/400 ml). Bring just to a boil, then remove from the heat and slowly add the hot milk to the egg mixture while stirring constantly. When all the milk has been added, pour the mixture through a finemesh sieve into a thick-bottomed saucepan.

   Step 3

   Place the pan over medium heat and stir, watching it carefully. As soon as the mixture thickens and you see 3 bubbles boil up, lower the heat and cook for 1 minute. Take the pan off the heat and pour the contents into a clean bowl. Let cool to body temperature, then whisk in the butter until incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface of the cream. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before using. You should have about 2 cups (500 ml).

   Step 4

   To make the pastry dough, in a saucepan, combine the water, butter, and the salt, cover, and bring to a boil over medium heat. As soon as the butter has melted and the water is boiling, add the flour in one shot. Remove from the heat and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until well combined—that is, no clumps. Return to the heat and continue to mix for 3 to 4 minutes only, or until the mixture is dry.

   Step 5

   Transfer the mixture to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. On medium speed, mix for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture is at room temperature. Then, one at a time, crack the eggs into a little bowl (so you won’t drop the shells in the mixer bowl) and add them to the mix. When you have added the seventh egg, check the consistency of the dough. It is ready if when you flip it with a wooden spoon, it drops neatly. If it is too stiff, add the remaining egg. You can refrigerate the dough at this point, but it will be very hard to pipe or manipulate, so it is best to use it right away.

   Step 6

   Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a round, plain tip (an Ateco no. 806, about 1/2 inch/12 mm in diameter, is ideal). Line a large rimmed baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Pipe 8 pastries onto the prepared baking sheet, forming a line about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 3/4 inch (2 cm) wide.

   Step 7

   Let the pastries rest for 20 minutes at room temperature. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

   Step 8

   Brush the pastries with the egg wash, then slip them into the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until you no longer see any white in the cracks. Lower the oven temperature to 325°F (165°F) and continue to bake for another 10 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and immediately poke each pastry with a bamboo skewer to let the steam out (this prevents sogginess). Let cool on the pan on a rack.

   Step 9

   Add fillings and toppings from the variations that follow. Using a serrated knife, cut the top off each éclair lengthwise, about two-thirds from the bottom (so the top is half the thickness of the bottom). You may also fill the éclairs without cutting off the tops. Poke two holes the size of a pen at each end of the bottom of the pastry, and fill using a pastry bag fitted with a small tip. To make most of our éclair toppings, we use commercial fondant, which is nothing more than corn syrup and sugar. It is relatively easy to obtain. You can probably get your local pastry shop to front you a little, or you can find it in some groceries.

2. VARIATIONS: PISTACHIO AND GREEN TEA

   Step 10

   Filling: We’ve tried to make our own pistachio paste, succeeding only in making a mortar with a very small amount of shamrock-green pistachio and 1 or 2 apricot kernels. It is easiest to use store-bought pistachio paste, of course, if you can find it. Add 3 tablespoons pistachio paste to the boiling milk when making the pastry cream, whisking well. The rest of the recipe process is identical.

   Step 11

   Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon green tea powder (matcha) into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed. Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each éclair. Sprinkle chopped pistachios on top.

3. NUTELLA AND HAZELNUT

   Step 12

   Filling: Add 1/4 cup (80 g) Nutella to the boiling milk when making the pastry cream, whisking well. The rest of the recipe is identical.

   Step 13

   Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon Nutella into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed. Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each éclair. Sprinkle toasted halved hazelnuts on top.

4. DOUBLE CHOCOLATE

   Step 14

   Filling: Sift 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder with the dry ingredients for the pastry cream. The rest of the recipe is identical.

   Step 15

   Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed. Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each éclair. Crushed chocolate Poky sticks are delicious on top, as great Japanese pastry chefs have shown us.

5. CORN, CARAMEL, AND EAGLE BRAND

   Step 16

   Filling: Omit the sugar from the pastry cream recipe, and subtract 5 tablespoons (75 ml) of the milk. Mix the generous 6 tablespoons (100 ml) milk with the egg yolks as directed, then bring the remaining 1 1/3 cups (325 ml) milk to a boil. Add 5 tablespoons (75 ml) Eagle brand sweetened condensed milk to the boiling milk. The rest of the recipe is identical. (Warning: Somehow the sugar helps the flour and cornstarch to disperse, preventing clumping. Because you don’t have sugar, you will need to go heavy on the whisking to avoid as many clumps as possible.)

   Step 17

   Topping: To make your own caramel, in a small, thick-bottomed saucepan, combine 1/2 cup (125 ml) water and 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar, place over high heat, and bring to a slow boil. Let simmer undisturbed for 10 to 15 minutes. It’s important that you don’t toss the mixture with a spoon or swirl the pan, or the caramel will crystallize. The mixture can go from a nice caramel to burnt quickly, so watch closely. Also, have your pastries filled and ready to be topped. When the mixture is a nice blond, take it off the heat.

   Step 18

   Using a sharp knife, remove a flat side from an ear of corn (a few rows of kernels wide and about 6 inches/15 cm long), working as carefully as you can. Place the strip of corn kernels on top of a filled éclair.

   Step 19

   Drizzle 1 to 2 tablespoons hot caramel over the corn. Be careful not to touch it before it sets or you’ll leave a mark. Remember, too, hot caramel will burn the hell out of your fingers. And when it cools, it’s like glass and cuts like it, too. If you like, add a pinch of cayenne pepper—so little you can barely see it. It adds a nice warmth.

6. CLASSIC CHANTILLY AND HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE

   Step 20

   Filling: Start with a cold bowl, 2 cups (500 ml) cold whipping cream (35 percent butterfat), and a cold whisk, a whip attachment for a stand mixer, or cold beaters and a handheld mixer. Pour the cold cream into the cold bowl and start beating. When the cream starts fluffing, add 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and continue beating. When the peaks are soft, add another 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar and continue to beat until the cream looks and tastes like whipped cream.

   Step 21

   Topping: The sauce is served hot and poured at the table. Finely chop 12 ounces (340 g) dark chocolate (above 65 percent cacao) and place in a bowl. In a saucepan, bring 2 cups (500 ml) half-and-half (15 percent butterfat) to a boil and pour over the chocolate. Let sit for 2 minutes, then whisk until the chocolate is melted and the sauce is smooth. Serve immediately or keep warm until serving.