Ciabatta, Poolish Version
This bread, with its big, shiny holes and amorphous shape, has taken America by storm, just as it did Italy during the past fifty years. Though it hails from an age-old tradition of rustic, slack-dough breads, the name ciabatta was not applied to this loaf until the mid-twentieth century by an enterprising baker in the Lake Como region of northern Italy. He observed that the bread resembled a slipper worn by dancers of the region and thus dubbed his loaf ciabatta di Como (slipper bread of Como). A new tradition was born. During the second half of the century, this ciabatta became the unofficial national bread of Italy, so closely identified is it with the chewy, rustic peasant breads of the Italian countryside. As with pugliese bread, the dough is not unlike that of many other Italian and French rustic breads, including pizza and focaccia, and can thus be made into many shapes other than the Lake Como slipper.
Recipe information
Yield
makes two 1-pound loaves or 3 smaller loaves
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Remove the poolish from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough to take off the chill.
Step 2
To make the dough, stir together the flour, salt, and yeast in a 4-quart mixing bowl. Add the poolish and 6 tablespoons of the water. With a large metal spoon (or on low speed with the paddle attachment), mix until the ingredients form a sticky ball. If there is still some loose flour, add the additional water as needed and continue to mix. If you are mixing by hand, repeatedly dip one of your hands or the metal spoon into cold water and use it, much like a dough hook, to work the dough vigorously into a smooth mass while rotating the bowl in a circular motion with the other hand (see page 56). Reverse the circular motion a few times to develop the gluten further. Do this for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and the ingredients are evenly distributed. If you are using an electric mixer, mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment for 5 to 7 minutes, or as long as it takes to create a smooth, sticky dough. Switch to the dough hook for the final 2 minutes of mixing. The dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom of the bowl. You may need to add additional flour to firm up the dough enough to clear the sides of the bowl, but the dough should still be quite soft and sticky.
Step 3
Sprinkle enough flour on the counter to make a bed about 8 inches square. Using a bowl scraper or spatula dipped in water, transfer the sticky dough to the bed of flour and proceed with the stretch-and-fold method shown below. Mist the top of the dough with spray oil, again dust with flour, and loosely cover with plastic wrap or a food-grade plastic bag.
Step 4
Let rest for 30 minutes. Stretch and fold the dough again; mist with spray oil, dust with flour, and cover. Allow the covered dough to ferment on the counter for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. It should swell but not necessarily double in size.
Step 5
Set up a couche as described on page 38. Carefully remove the plastic from the dough and proceed as shown below in the Shaping Ciabatta sidebar. Mist the top of the dough with spray oil and dust the dough with more flour, then cover the cloth with a towel.
Step 6
Proof for 45 to 60 minutes at room temperature, or until the dough has noticeably swelled.
Step 7
Prepare the oven for hearth baking as described on pages 91–94, making sure to have an empty steam pan in place. Preheat the oven to 500°F.
Step 8
Generously dust a peel or the back of a sheet pan with semolina flour or cornmeal and very gently transfer the dough pieces to the peel or pan, using the pastry scraper if you need support. Lift the dough from each end and tug the dough out to a length of 9 to 12 inches. If the dough bulges too high in the middle, gently dimple it down with your fingertips to even out the height of the loaf. Slide the 2 doughs (or bake one at a time if you prefer) onto the baking stone (or bake directly on the sheet pan). Pour 1 cup hot water into the steam pan and close the door. After 30 seconds, open the door, spray the side walls of the oven with water, and close the door. Repeat twice more at 30-second intervals. After the final spray, turn the oven setting down to 450°F and bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the loaves 180 degrees, if necessary, for even baking and continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes longer, or until done. The bread should register 205°F in the center and should be golden in color (but the flour streaks will also give it a dusty look). The loaves will feel quite hard and crusty at first but will soften as they cool.
Step 9
Transfer the bread from the oven to a cooling rack and allow to cool for at least 45 minutes before slicing or serving.
Stretch and Fold Method
Step 10
Dust the top of the dough liberally with flour, patting the dough into a rectangle. Wait 2 minutes for the dough to relax.
Step 11
Coat your hands with flour and lift the dough from each end, stretching it to twice its size.
Step 12
Fold the dough over itself, letter style, to return it to a rectangular shape.
Shaping Ciabatta
Step 13
Using a pastry scraper that has been dipped in water, divide the dough into 2 or 3 rectangles, taking care not to degas the dough. Sprinkle the dough generously with more flour and, using the scraper to get under the dough, gently lift each piece from the counter and then roll it on both sides in the loose flour to coat.
Step 14
Lay the loaves on the cloth and gently fold each piece of dough, from left to right, letter style, into an oblong about 6 inches long.
Step 15
Bunch the cloth between the pieces to provide a wall.
COMMENTARY
Step 16
You can add 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of olive oil to the formula and/or substitute whole milk or buttermilk for some or all of the water (even the poolish can be made with milk). In either instance, the oil- or milk-enriched product will be softer and more tender than the lean, water-only version. If you are adding the oil, you may need to also add a small amount of flour—as always, let the dough dictate if it needs any flour or liquid adjustments.
Step 17
As you become comfortable with wet dough, you may want to try increasing the hydration and stickiness of the dough. The wetter the better, as long as it holds together enough to make the stretch-and-fold maneuvers. It is during the stretching and folding that the gluten has a chance to strengthen, resulting in the large holes so distinctive and prized in this bread.
Step 18
This dough is very simple to make in a food processor. See page 55 for instructions.
Step 19
There are a number of fabulous variations that can be made by adding mushrooms, cheese, and sautéed onions, as described on the following pages.
BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA
Step 20
Ciabatta, Poolish Version %
Step 21
Poolish: 169%
Step 22
Bread flour: 100%
Step 23
Salt: 3.3%
Step 24
Instant yeast: 1.3%
Step 25
Water (approx.): 33.3%
Step 26
Total: 306.9%
BREAD PROFILE
Step 27
Lean, rustic dough; indirect method; commercial yeast
DAYS TO MAKE: 2
Step 28
Day 1: 2 to 4 hours poolish or biga
Step 29
Day 2: 1 hour to de-chill poolish or biga; 10 to 15 minutes mixing; 3 to 4 hours fermentation, shaping, and proofing; 20 to 30 minutes baking
