Churros
It is a spectacle to see these fritters made at the churreria that opened in 1935, called Los Churros del Moro, in downtown Mexico City. The churro master, as I call him, presses a lever that pushes out the soft dough, and as it hits the oil, he moves it, forming a large coil that looks like a six-foot-long snake all curled up. He very gently bathes it with the oil. When it is golden, he pulls it out and drains it on a round metal tray. It is then handed to another churro master, who cuts it with scissors into long strips the size of a straw and rolls the strips in plain sugar or a ground canela–sugar mixture. You can get hot chocolate (there are five types: Vienna, Francesca, Español, Especial, and Mexicano, varying in sweetness) to accompany them, although some people prefer to dip them in warm cajeta or chocolate sauce. I knew the famed churreria was not going to share its recipe (I have tried for a long time), so I was always on the lookout for one that was close enough . . . Then one day, while visiting the Mercado Pino Suarez (the main market) in Villa Hermosa, Tabasco, I was suddenly distracted by the distinctive aroma of freshly made churros. I followed the scent, which led me to a small corner stand. The churros were warm, a little puffier than those at del Moro, and absolutely, undoubtedly, one of the best I’d ever had. There was no hot chocolate or sauce to dip them into. Just pure crunchy, sweet fritters with an intense cinnamon flavor and a little something else I couldn’t quite make out. I really wanted the recipe, and after a little talking and smiling, I was allowed to visit the next day to see how they were made. So, there I was, walking alone on the streets of this not-so-safe place, at 4:00 in the morning. It was still dark, and there were a few people around: some were just finishing their night and others were busy getting ready to open their businesses. I am not a morning person at all, but making churros at a market in Mexico is definitely an antidote to morning crankiness. The secret ingredient in these churros? Queso fresco! Here is the adapted recipe from Lorenzo Sanches Mendoza from the stand El As Negro, with my profound thanks.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 20
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Combine the water and canela sticks in a medium pot and cook over medium heat until reduced to 2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the canela. Place back in the pot, add the salt and butter, and cook over medium heat until melted. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once, stirring vigorously to remove any lumps. Continue stirring until the dough comes together into a smooth ball. Allow the mixture to cool in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes, and then add the queso fresco, stirring to incorporate. Add the eggs, one at a time, and stir until the dough is nice and smooth.
Step 2
Pour the oil into a large, deep pan or skillet to a depth of at least 2 inches and heat over high heat to 350°F. (To test the temperature, drop a bit of dough into the oil. It should sink and quickly float to the top and bubble.)
Step 3
Put some of the dough into a churrera or a heavy canvas bag fitted with a star tip. (A closed-star tip is best for creating the deep ridges associated with churros.) Squeeze or press out long strips (5 to 6 inches) of dough directly over the oil and cut off the ends with scissors. Fry a few at a time, turning so that they are evenly golden on all sides, 4 to 6 minutes. (Caution: Air pockets that form in the dough as you press it out and a frying oil that’s not hot enough will make the churros burst.) Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper bags or towels. Let cool slightly so you can make sure they are cooked through (they should be soft inside and an even color, with no traces of raw dough). Roll in the canela-sugar mixture while still warm so that the mixture sticks to them. Eat warm with some frothy hot Mexican chocolate.
