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Chocolate-Olive Panini

Late-night eating is one of those things that’s pretty much a fact of a chef’s life. Really late-night eating. And I often end up with friends at ’ino and ’inoteca, where they make the greatest panini in New York. One very late night, my cooks and I thought it would be fun to create a sandwich for the dessert menu. Here’s the result. The combination of chocolate with the tangy olives is addictive.

Cooks' Note

Gianduja paste and feuilletine are both available online from L’Epicerie. You could also buy cigarette cookies from a gourmet store and crush them as a substitute for the feuilletine.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 8 on it¿s own or 16 as part of fourplay

Ingredients

For the Candied Olives

1 cup (100g) pitted black olives in brine (such as Kalamata, Gaeta, or Niçoise)
1 1/2 cups (420g) Simple Syrup (page 184)
Sugar

For the Crispy Olive Gianduja

10 1/2 ounces (300g) gianduja paste (see Note)
2 1/2 ounces (75g) feuilletine (see Note)
1 3/4 ounces (50g) candied olives, chopped

For the Balsamic Vinaigrette

3 tablespoons (40g) aged (25-year) balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup (80g) water
1/4 teaspoon (0.35g) xanthan gum
Coarse salt
Sugar
1/4 cup (45g) extra-virgin olive oil

To Serve

Unsalted butter, softened
8 very thin slices Chocolate Brioche (page 196), crusts removed
4 ounces (113g) Fontina Val d’Aosta, shredded
Micro arugula (or thinly sliced arugula; optional)

Preparation

  1. For the Candied Olives

    Step 1

    Rinse the olives and drain well.

    Step 2

    Cut the olives in half lengthwise and put them in a small saucepan with the simple syrup. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

    Step 3

    Heat the oven to 150°F. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat.

    Step 4

    Drain the olives and toss them in sugar to coat lightly. Lay them out on the Silpat and dry in the oven for about 3 hours. The olives should still be meaty but not crisp. You could also set the olives on acetate-lined dehydrator trays and dry for 4 hours at 135°F.

    Step 5

    Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

  2. For the Crispy Olive Gianduja

    Step 6

    Line a 9 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment.

    Step 7

    Melt the gianduja in 30-second bursts in the microwave, letting it sit for about 1 minute and stirring between bursts. Stir in the feuilletine and olives. Spread the paste out evenly in the baking sheet. Cover with another sheet of parchment and flatten to make sure it’s completely even. Refrigerate until cold and set.

  3. For the Balsamic Vinaigrette

    Step 8

    Stir the vinegar and water together.

    Step 9

    Combine the xanthan gum with a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar and whisk slowly into the vinegar and water; make sure there are no lumps. Whisk in the olive oil.

    Step 10

    Store in a jar for up to 3 days.

  4. To Serve

    Step 11

    Heat a panini press or an electric grill.

    Step 12

    Butter the brioche slices lightly on one side each and place half of the slices, buttered side down, on the counter.

    Step 13

    Cut the crispy olive gianduja into squares the size of your bread. Place a square of gianduja on the bread, cover with a layer of shredded cheese, and top with another piece of bread, buttered side up.

    Step 14

    Cook in the panini press until the gianduja is soft and the cheese has started to melt, about 90 seconds.

    Step 15

    Cut the panini in half or, if serving as a part of a fourplay, in quarters. Serve the panini with a drizzle of the vinaigrette, some arugula, if desired, and some broken pieces of candied olives.

  5. make it simpler

    Step 16

    If you don’t want to make Chocolate Brioche, you could make the panini with some nice black bread.

Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book. Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__
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