Chocolate-Caramel Soufflés
I don’t think I have a bright future as a food stylist. For my first book, Michael, the photographer, insisted that I make and style all the food, even though I had no experience food styling. When it came time to shoot soufflés, I panicked and asked a real stylist for tips on how to keep them aloft while the camera clicked away. He suggested adding yeast to them, which sounded like it might work, so I gave it a try. But when I opened the oven door to pull out the first batch, they’d risen way high and arched over, looking like custardy Slinkys. So I went back to making soufflés a few at a time the way I knew best—without yeast—and ran them from the oven to the set to be photographed. I breathed a sigh of relief each time the photographer was able to capture a few shots before the soufflés’ inevitable descent. As soon as they started falling, we dove in and quickly polished them off before the next take. Later, when we looked at the proofs, we noticed my face clearly reflected in the spoon resting alongside the soufflés, which was pretty amusing—and completely unprofessional. Although my future as a stylist was in question, no one in the studio doubted my ability to make fantastic, if not long-lasting, soufflés.
Before preparing this recipe, see Caramelization Guidelines, page 265.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 4 servings
Ingredients
Caramel Pastry Cream
Soufflés
Preparation
Step 1
To make the pastry cream, spread the 1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat without stirring until the sugar begins to melt around the edges. Using a heatproof utensil, slowly drag the liquified sugar to the center and stir gently until all the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Remove from the heat and gradually stir in the milk. The caramel will bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside. If the caramel seizes into a hardened mass, whisk the mixture over low heat until most of the caramel is dissolved. Don’t worry about any small chunks; they’ll dissolve later.
Step 2
Sift the flour into the caramel mixture, then whisk to break up any lumps. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually whisk in a small amount of the hot thickened caramel mixture. Scrape the yolk mixture into the saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan, and cook until thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise. Press the pastry cream through a mesh strainer set over a large bowl, then whisk in the vanilla and salt. Measure out 1/2 cup (125 g) of the pastry cream and reserve it in a large bowl. Let cool completely. Cover remaining pastry cream, refrigerate, and reserve for another use.
Step 3
To make the soufflés, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter four 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins or soufflé molds. Pour some granulated sugar into each and tilt the ramekin to coat the sides; gently tap out any excess. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet.
Step 4
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the 2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar, and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.
Step 5
Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the reserved pastry cream, then gently fold in the chocolate chunks or chips. Fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them. A few streaks of egg whites are preferable to an overfolded and deflated soufflé mixture.
Step 6
Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, filling them just to the rims, then sprinkle with a generous dusting of granulated sugar. Run your thumb around inner edge of each ramekin, through the soufflé mixture, making a shallow, even channel as you go. This will allow the soufflés to bake up with nice crowns. Bake until the tops are browned and the soufflés quiver softly when gently nudged, about 9 minutes.
Step 7
Serve the soufflés right away dusted with powdered sugar.
Serving
Step 8
Quickly split open at the table, the soufflés are great with very cold crème anglaise (page 237) poured into them, or with a scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream (page 143) or Chocolate Gelato (page 146) melting in the center.
Storage
Step 9
The caramel pastry cream can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated.
Variation
Step 10
In lieu of topping each soufflé with powdered sugar before serving, scatter a few granules of good sea salt, such as fleur de sel, over the top of each soufflé before baking. The delicate flakes add a whisper of salty crunch to contrast against the warm caramel and melting chunks of chocolate.
