Caramelized Nut Clusters

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Caramelized almonds, hazelnuts, and pistachio nuts were among the range of confectionery sold on the beaches of Alexandria when I was a child. Young vendors paced the sands carrying confections and sweetmeats in large, flat wicker baskets, chanting “Fresca!” (I wonder if it originated from the Italian, meaning “fresh.”) They balanced the baskets on their heads, resting them on a coiled piece of soft cloth, and sometimes carried a second basket perched on one hip and held at the other side by an outstretched hand. Their chant was echoed by that of other vendors, singing, “Casquette, baranet, pantofla, pastillia, chocolat!” (“Caps, hats, slippers, pastilles, chocolate!”), or “Gazouza, gazouza!” (“Fizzy lemonade!”). Some sold salted roasted peanuts and pistachios as well as confectionery, and gambled these in games of odds-and-evens with their customers.

   Step 2

   To make nut clusters, put about 3 1/3 cups whole hazelnuts, almonds, or pistachio nuts (blanched or not) together in little heaps on an oiled marble slab or on a large oiled plate. Melt 2 1/4 cups sugar over very low heat, stirring constantly. Allow the caramel to become light brown, then pour it over the nut clusters. As it cools, the caramel will harden and hold the nuts together.

   Step 3

   Alternatively, and more simply, the nuts or almonds can be thrown into the hot, light brown caramel and stirred until they are all well coated. Pour the whole onto an oiled slab or plate. When it has hardened, crack it into pieces.

   Step 4

   A less common variation is to simmer the nuts in honey instead of caramel until the mixture thickens. Sesame seeds are sometimes used in this manner.