Brioche and Brioche Relatives
Brioche is the standard by which all rich breads are judged. In fact, whenever rich breads are described, they are often compared to brioche or called a relative. Brioche is actually simple in character: it is enriched with a small amount of sugar, substantial amounts of egg, and lots of butter—at least in excess of 20 percent (butter to flour ratio) but usually 50 percent or higher. I have rarely seen brioche made commercially with more than 75 percent butter, but I have seen formulas that call for up to 100 percent. There are countless formula variations. Some are made with sponges or other pre-ferments, some by the direct-dough method. Some versions are immediately fermented and then shaped and baked, while some require overnight chilling. The anecdotal history of this bread includes allusions to Queen Marie Antoinette, whose last words are reputed to be properly translated as “Let them eat brioche,” and not “Let them eat cake.” There are a lot of reasons to assume that either translation is more myth than fact, but it does beg the question, why would anyone even think to make such a statement? This may be because brioche had two distinct expressions in pre-Revolution France. One version, for the wealthy and thus called rich man’s brioche, was loaded with butter (70 percent or more). The other, made for the huddled masses and therefore called poor man’s brioche, was butter challenged (20 to 25 percent). As so often happens with bread, it makes a perfect symbol for many things, not the least of which is the class struggle between the haves and the have-nots. So, it would make sense that if the queen was about to lose her head because the revolutionaries were, for the most part, have-nots, why not offer them rich man’s brioche. “Yeah, we can do that, sure.” But, alas, it was too late, too futile, and probably too arrogant a gesture. When we examine the formula for rich man’s brioche, one thing becomes evident: it has almost the same flour to fat to sugar ratio as pie dough. The main difference is the yeast and eggs. Most pie dough, whether pâte brisée (plain) or pâte sucrée (sweet), and whether flaky or mealy, is made by some variation of what is known as the 1-2-3 method. This means 3 parts flour, 2 parts fat, and 1 part water (and also, in sweet or sucrée pie dough, sugar). The ratio translates as 66.6 percent fat to 100 percent flour. Brioche, rich man’s brioche at least, has between 50 and 80 percent butter, right in the pie-dough range. This means that brioche can, in principle, be used to make a very nice tender pie or tart dough, which is often done in French pâtisseries. It is a wonderful alternative to the flaky or mealy pie dough under quiche or other custard tarts, as I have witnessed in the clafouti sold in the pastry shop of Paris’s Ritz Hotel. Apparently, they make hundreds of these tartlets everyday for their guests and can barely keep up with the demand. Other applications of brioche include loaf breads for the definitive French toast, tea and café rolls, wraps for meat- or vegetable-filled molds, and, most famously, small fluted rolls with “heads” (petites brioches à tête). Beyond that, there are the infinite regional and holiday expressions of the bread, from the Italian pandoro and panettone, to the kugelhopf of Alsace, stollen of Germany and Switzerland, and the amazing meat- and- cheese-filled Italian version called casatiello. The following versions of brioche give you three options, depending on the amount of butter you feel ready to tackle. In the spirit of Queen Marie, we will call them rich man’s, middleclass, and poor man’s brioche, all of which have valid applications in the bread canon.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 16 to 24 petites brioches à tête, 2 to 4 large brioches à tête, or three 1-pound loaves
Ingredients
Sponge
Dough
Preparation
Step 1
To make the sponge, stir together the flour and yeast in a large mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Stir in the milk until all the flour is hydrated. Cover with plastic wrap and ferment for 20 minutes, or until the sponge rises and then falls when you tap the bowl.
Step 2
To make the dough, add the eggs to the sponge and whisk (or beat on medium speed with the paddle attachment) until smooth. In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt. Add this mixture to the sponge and eggs and stir (or continue to mix with the paddle on low speed for about 2 minutes) until all the ingredients are hydrated and evenly distributed. Let this mixture rest for 5 minutes so that the gluten can begin to develop. Then, while mixing with a large spoon (or on medium speed with the paddle), gradually work in the butter, about one-quarter at a time, waiting until each addition of butter assimilates before adding more. This will take a few minutes. Continue mixing for about 6 more minutes, or until the dough is very well mixed. You will have to scrape down the bowl from time to time as the dough will cling to it. The dough will be very smooth and soft.
Step 3
Line a sheet pan with baking parchment and mist lightly with spray oil. Transfer the dough to the sheet pan, spreading it to form a large, thick rectangle measuring about 6 inches by 8 inches. Mist the top of the dough with spray oil and cover the pan with plastic wrap or place it in a large food-grade plastic bag.
Step 4
Immediately put the pan into the refrigerator and chill overnight, or for at least 4 hours.
Step 5
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and shape it while it is very cold. If it warms up or softens, return it to the refrigerator. If you are making brioches à tête, lightly oil or use spray oil to grease the fluted molds. Divide the dough into 12 to 16 portions for petites brioches à tête and 2 to 4 portions for larger shapes. (The size of each portion should correspond to the size of the molds; petites brioches à tête are typically 1 1/2 to 2 ounces each, while larger versions can range from 1 to 2 pounds. Whatever size you are making, the molds should only be half full with dough to allow for expansion during proofing.) Shape the petites brioches à tête into small balls (see page 82) and the larger ones into boules(see page 72). Proceed with shaping instructions shown below. Place the molds on a sheet pan after final shaping. If you are making loaves, grease two 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch loaf pans. Divide the dough into 3 pieces and shape the dough into loaves.
Step 6
Mist the top of the dough with spray oil and loosely cover with plastic wrap, or slip the pan(s) into a food-grade plastic bag. Proof the dough until it nearly fills the molds or loaf pans, 1 1/2 to 2 hours for petites brioches à tête and longer for larger shapes. Gently brush the tops with egg wash. Cover the dough with plastic wrap that has been lightly misted with spray oil. Continue proofing for another 15 to 30 minutes, or until the dough fills the molds or pans.
Step 7
Preheat the oven to 400°F with the oven rack on the middle shelf for petites brioches à tête, or 350°F for larger shapes.
Step 8
Bake for about 15 to 20 minutes for petites brioches à tête and 35 to 50 minutes for larger shapes. The internal temperature should register above 180°F for the small ones and about 190°F for the larger shapes. The bread should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom and be golden brown.
Step 9
Remove the brioches or loaves from the pans as soon as they come out of the oven and cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes for small brioches and 1 hour for larger shapes before serving.
Shaping Brioches a Tete
Step 10
Method 1: Dust your hands with flour and, using the edge of your hand (A), divide a ball of dough into a large and small ball by rolling down, but not quite all the way through, the dough. (B) Place the large ball into the oiled brioche mold and use the tips of your fingers to indent the top and to round and center the smaller ball.
Step 11
Method 2: Roll the dough into a strand that tapers at one end. (A) Poke a hole in the thick end and (B) loop the tapered end through it so that it pops out and forms a cap. Round the cap into a ball and center it on the larger portion. Place it in the oiled brioche mold.
COMMENTARY
Step 12
When a formula calls for lots of fat, whether butter, shortening, or oil, it is usually beneficial to wait until the gluten has had an opportunity to develop before adding the fat. If the fat is added at the beginning, it coats the protein fragments (gliadin and glutenin) and makes it difficult for them to bond into the longer, stronger gluten molecule. Wait 5 minutes before incorporating the fat to allow complete hydration to occur. Of course, there are cakelike variations of brioche in which the butter is intentionally added with the flour to create a very tender, tight-crumbed bread, almost like pound cake. If you desire this texture or application, simply add the butter early on and ignore the chill-down step, transferring the batter, with a spoon or spatula, to a greased pan right after the primary fermentation.
Step 13
To make brioche à tête, you will need a special fluted brioche mold, available at gourmet kitchen shops. These molds come in many sizes, but I find the small 2-ounce molds to be the most functional. The larger molds are nice for special holiday or festive breads like panettone. Remember to increase the baking time to account for the dough size. (All three brioche variations can be made as standard rolls; see page 82 for shaping.)
Step 14
The Rich Man’s Brioche that follows is even richer than the version presented in Crust & Crumb. That one was about 70 percent butter to flour; this version is about 88 percent butter to flour. The yeast percentage is thus higher to provide the necessary push, and the sponge is very fast, needing only 20 minutes to develop. It is best mixed in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, but it can also be mixed by hand with a sturdy spoon and a strong arm.
BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA
Step 15
Rich Man’s Brioche %
Step 16
(SPONGE)
Step 17
Bread flour: 12.3%
Step 18
Instant yeast: 1.8%
Step 19
Milk: 21.9%
Step 20
(DOUGH)
Step 21
Eggs: 45.2%
Step 22
Bread flour: 87.7%
Step 23
Sugar: 6.8%
Step 24
Salt: 2.1%
Step 25
Butter: 87.7%
Step 26
Total: 265.5%
