Basic Brown Stock

Name: Basic Brown Stock
Yield: Makes 3 1/2 quarts
Ingredients: 4 pounds veal bones, such as knuckles and shin; 2 pounds short ribs or oxtail (optional; add 3 more pounds of veal bones if not using); 3 tablespoons sunflower or other neutral-tasting oil; 2 tablespoons tomato paste; 2 onions, unpeeled and quartered; 2 celery stalks, each cut into thirds; 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces; 4 garlic cloves; 1 cup water or red wine; 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley; 4 sprigs thyme; 2 dried bay leaves; 2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

January 26, 2012

Brown stock gets its color—and its flavor—from the initial step of roasting bones and vegetables, often with a bit of tomato paste added to promote browning and impart a caramelized flavor, as well as a touch of acidity. After the contents of the pan are transferred to a stockpot, the pan is deglazed (either with water or red wine) to incorporate all the flavorful browned bits, which then, too, get added to the pot. In classical French cooking, brown stock is made with veal bones to produce a delicate-bodied soup. In the recipe that follows, beef is added for deeper flavor, but you can replace the beef with more veal bones (or veal stew meat) for the traditional version. Brown stock can also be made with chicken (see variation); this would be ideal for using in more robust dishes, such as braised meats. Heed the general rules for making all stocks, including simmering very gently, skimming frequently, and keeping enough liquid in the pot so that everything is submerged at all times. Brown stock is also the basis for other classic preparations, including demi glace and glace de viande (see page 52).

Recipe notes