All-Purpose Turkey Broth
Capon soup in Italy is the soup of the holidays. Rich and full of flavor, it is a soup base for tortellini, straciatella, and passatelli. Here it is difficult to get capon as readily as it is in Italy, but if you can find one, by all means make a big pot of capon soup following the recipe below. It was my mother who started using turkey, especially the wings, in her basic poultry and vegetable broth. She and Giovanni enjoy the meaty pieces—a couple of wings is plenty for them for dinner. Everyone loves the broth, which is sweet, flavorful, and not too strong. And Lorenzo is always ready to have a bowl of broth with noodles after school—proof of its goodness. Not least important to Grandma is that turkey wings are readily available, inexpensive, and, at our big neighborhood market, often on sale. So turkey wings and turkey broth have become staple items in our freezer. I use the broth as I would chicken or vegetable stock, in sauces, roasts, risotti, and lots of skillet dishes. I’ve found it extremely versatile and tasty—but not so much so that it overwhelms other flavors. Here then is our All-Purpose Turkey Broth—my mother’s original with my adjustments. You can use it in many recipes throughout this book, especially in the long-cooking pasta sauces and main course roasts and braises, as well as for all kinds of satisfying soups. Adjust the broth to suit you: either clear and light or with more body, with the vegetables mashed in. This is a large recipe, giving you plenty to freeze and have on hand whenever you need it.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 6 quarts of broth
Ingredients
Recommended Equipment
Preparation
Heating, Skimming, and Cooking
Step 1
Pour the cold water into the stockpot and set it over high heat. Rinse the turkey wings and drop them in the water, followed by all the other ingredients as you prepare them. Bring the water to a full active boil, then lower the heat slightly to maintain a gentle rolling boil. For the next 15 minutes, cook uncovered, frequently skimming off the residue and scum as it accumulates. Once there is no more or very little residue rising, set a cover ajar over the pot—I prop it up with a long wooden spoon resting on the pot rim—leaving a space for evaporation. Adjust the heat to keep the broth reducing slowly at a gentle boil. (Note the level of liquid in the pot when you put the cover in place, so you can tell how much it has reduced.)
Step 2
After an hour or more, mash the softened vegetables (if you want) against the side of the pan, especially the carrots and tomatoes. A good smush with a spoon or spatula is enough. Or (another choice) leave a few of the nicest carrot pieces intact to enjoy as a soup vegetable later on. But—a major decision—if you want to end up with an especially clear broth, do not mash any vegetables at all.
Step 3
At this time, the liquid level should be noticeably lower—1 or 2 inches in most pots. If not, make sure the broth is boiling actively and leave the cover off.
Step 4
After 2 hours or so, when the broth is reduced by approximately 1/4 of its original volume, check its consistency and flavor. If you want it for sauces, roasts, or other dishes, and it is light bodied with distinct brothy flavor-though not strong enough to call soup—stop cooking now.
Step 5
If you want it to have a stronger flavor and more body—to serve as soup or use for more intense sauces—keep cooking uncovered, until it has concentrated to the degree you like. (Or divide the broth: remove and reserve some of the lighter broth and cook the rest to intensify it.)
Straining, Cooling, and Storing the Broth
Step 6
When the broth is cooked to your taste, turn off the heat. Lift out the turkey wings with a spider or slotted spatula, and put them in a bowl to cool; extract any whole, attractive carrot pieces for later eating, too. Set a sieve (either coarse, if you want body and color, or fine-meshed for clearer broth) or a colander into the empty pot and strain the broth through it. Ladle out in stages if the pot is too heavy to pour from.
Step 7
After the broth has drained through, press and scrape the vegetables against the sieve, mashing them well, then scrape the soft vegetable purée from the bottom of the sieve and blend it into the broth. But if you want clear broth, don’t press the vegetables at all.
Step 8
If you are using the broth right away, skim the surface with a spoon or ladle, scooping up as much fat as possible; soak up the last floating slicks of fat by touching them with the edge of a paper towel. Otherwise chill the broth (either in the pot or in smaller freezer containers) and pry off the fat layer after it has solidified.
Step 9
Store unused broth in the refrigerator for 4 or 5 days; freeze for use within 4 or 5 months. Bring it back to the boil before using in other dishes or serving as a soup.
Step 10
Don’t forget the turkey wings: separate and shred all the meat discard the bones, skin, and cartilage. Enjoy the meat (and any carrots or other vegetables that you’ve saved).
