Pumpkin Cannelloni with Clams and Sage Brown Butter

Preparation

1. Make filling and form cannelloni:

   Step 1

   Heat butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then sauté squash and fennel with salt and pepper, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 4 minutes. Add shallot and water and simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Cool vegetables, then purée in a food processor until smooth and season with salt and pepper.

   Step 2

   Preheat oven to 400°F.

   Step 3

   Cook pasta sheets in a 4- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until al dente, 1 to 2 minutes, then immediately transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice and cold water to cool. Drain well, then pat sheets dry on paper towels and arrange in 1 layer in a well-oiled large shallow baking pan. Spoon 1/4 cup filling along 1 short end of a rectangle, then roll up filling in pasta. Make 3 more rolls in same manner and arrange, seam sides down, in baking pan. Drizzle cannelloni with oil.

2. Make clam sauce and bake cannelloni:

   Step 4

   Cook bacon in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until fat is rendered but bacon is not yet crisp, about 5 minutes. Add shallot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add clams, wine, fennel seeds, and sage and cook, covered, until clams are fully open, 6 to 10 minutes, checking every minute after 6 minutes and removing clams as they fully open. (Discard any clams that have not opened after 10 minutes.)

   Step 5

   While clams are cooking, bake cannelloni in middle of oven until heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.

3. Make sage brown butter:

   Step 6

   Heat butter in a 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then fry sage leaves until crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer leaves with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Season with salt. Add shallot to butter and cook, stirring, until shallot is golden and butter is deep golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add lemon juice (butter will foam), then remove from heat. Stir in parsley and season brown butter with salt and pepper.

   Step 7

   To serve, put a cannelloni in center of each of 4 warm large plates. Divide clams with juices among plates and drizzle with brown butter. Top with fried sage leaves.