Thanksgiving

The 1970s saw perhaps the biggest change in cooking in this century. That's when a group of talented young chefs in France came up with "nouvelle cuisine," emphasizing fresh ingredients, elegant presentation, and interesting and unusual combinations of foods and flavors. American chefs quickly imported it and made it into something uniquely their own. For our take on this landmark in contemporary cooking, we've shaped purchased puff pastry into individual tartlet, filled them with pistachio frangipane and sliced pears, and topped it all off with a sweet-wine glaze.

This "stuffing" has a soft, custard-like texture and should not be baked inside a bird.

Here's a colorful and creative pie: Apricots, which flourish in California, Hawaiian pineapple and Oregon cranberries come together in a filling that offers a terrific balance of the exotic and the traditional. It's good with vanilla ice cream.

The following recipe is adapted from one that the early Ohio Shakers made often. This lemon pie, a refreshing finish to a hearty meal, shows how the thrifty Shakers were unwilling to waste even the skin of a fruit that had to be purchased rather than grown in their gardens.

The sweet bread called for here was introduced to Hawaii by nineteenth-century Portuguese immigrants. The stuffing can also be cooked inside the turkey, provided the bird is roasted immediately after being stuffed. For more flavor, rub the turkey with a mixture of salt and pepper and two tablespoons each of sesame oil, orange juice and lime juice, and let it marinate overnight.

This delicious stuffing is similar to a savory bread pudding. It's best baked alongside, rather than inside, the bird.

With its use of dried porcini in the turkey rub and fresh shiitakes in the light gravy, this recipe from the late food writer Michael McLaughlin is a fine example of his signature style: deeply flavorful seasonal cooking. You can make the turkey stock for the gravy up to two days ahead.

This recipe can be doubled and baked in a 13x9x2-inch baking dish.

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 5 hr

This dressing is best cooked in a dish of its own, which also allows the top layer of bread to brown to an appealing crisp.

Fresh pumpkin or squash puree is always delicious but not nearly as handy as canned pumpkin.