Thanksgiving

Squash with long, thin necks will yield uniform rounds when sliced and ensure even cooking.

Boston brown bread is in the canned-vegetable aisle of most supermarkets.

Because Gruyère is somewhat salty, use unbrined roast turkey in this dish. Also, and old-fashioned turkey gravy (no cider or soy sauce) will enhance the gratin best.

The milder flavor and softer aroma of Turkish bay leaves are preferable in this dish.

For best flavor and moist, juicy meat, brine the turkey for 36 to 48 hours. If you are planning to brine it in a cooler, plan on needing extra ice. Kosher salt is preferred in most brine recipes for its pure flavor and because it dissolves quickly.

These are especially good when made with leftover grilled turkey.

Fuyu persimmons are an inspired addition to winter salads. This one would make a lovely starter at Thanksgiving dinner.

Hachiya persimmons, which are very soft when ripe, are preferred here (to slice them, use a serrated knife), but ripe Fuyus will work nicely, too.