Fall

Lee believes that classic dishes are far from being precious artifacts; they are inherently adaptable, and that's what makes them timeless. The starting point here was his "very Italian" wine importer, Enrico Battisti, but instead of polenta, Lee uses quick-cooking stone-ground grits from Anson Mills, in Columbia, South Carolina."They're better than any polenta," he says, "because they're so fresh. I call them hero grits."

What you find here and on page 96—aside from a striking striped presentation—is an equally beautiful expression of flavors. Because both beets and pears are at the height of their season, Lee has no desire, as he says, "to mess with them too much." He adds, "Nature trumps the ability of any chef." The ginger juice in the vinaigrette is inspired by Lee's Asian roots.

Give a grown-up, garnet-hued twist to a Halloween classic by coating apples in a red wine–infused caramel sauce.

When it comes to dessert, I am a chocoholic first and fruit-pie lover second; but after several test batches to perfect this cake, I am completely won over, and so is everyone who has tasted it. This is simply a spectacular cake—moist and light with spiced pumpkin flavor and sweet bites of coconut and pineapple. In addition, it is a snap to make. It requires two 9-inch cake pans to make the layers, but the cake itself can be mixed together with a rubber spatula and bowl. If all the cake ingredients are pre-measured and the cake pans prepared, this can be a fun kitchen project to do with children, especially since it can be made ahead and frozen.

Frying sage leaves is easy and provides a real wow factor. The sage and chestnuts make an ideal foil for these pillowy gnocchi.

This spinach salad speaks to all the wonderful autumnal flavors of the Pacific Northwest. The new crop of bronzed Bosc pears is piled high at the farmers' market; the hazelnuts have been harvested, shelled, and bagged for sale; and the cranberries arrive from the Long Beach, Washington, coastal bogs. I buy sweetened dried cranberries from a local producer, but they are readily available at the grocery store (Ocean Spray is a good-quality packager), found alongside raisins and other dried fruits. This salad is a snap to assemble if you buy the packaged prewashed and trimmed baby spinach.

Total cost: $9.86

Pumpkin is a member of the gourd family. Its flesh is fibrous and firm, and has an earthy, sometimes sweet, taste. It is used in Asian cooking in a number of ways, both savory and sweet. When buying pumpkin check that the skin is not pitted and that the stem is still intact. Rich in beta-carotene, pumpkins can help protect the body against heart disease.

Like kale chips but smaller, separated Brussels sprout leaves get crisp when tossed in oil and roasted in the oven.

Cavolo nero (also called black kale, dinosaur kale, or lacinato kale) has a deep flavor that goes beautifully with the richness of pan-roasted duck breasts. The kale can be found at some supermarkets and at farmers' markets and natural foods stores, but any other kale variety can be substituted. Be sure to begin preparation one day ahead.

Golden Delicious apples hold their shape even when baked at a hot temperature and wrapped in puff pastry. Their honeyed flavor adds just the right amount of sweetness to balance these slightly savory turnovers.

This French-style tart deserves a sophisticated apple. Our top pick is the Braeburn, which is crisp and sweet-tart with a fruity, almost perfumed flavor. It's a perfect match for the delicate almond filling. The Gala apple makes a nice alternative.

A relatively new variety, Honeycrisps have a sweet, mellow flavor. They're very juicy, and when baked long and slow, their juices bubble and caramelize. These baked apples are best served slightly warm, but they are also great served cold for breakfast the next morning, topped with a dollop of yogurt. A V-slicer makes quick work of slicing the apples, but if you don't have one, a sharp sturdy knife will do the trick.

Gnudi is a type of gnocchi, made from ricotta cheese and a little bit of flour. The result is a dumpling that's as light and fluffy as a cloud. The dumpling dough needs to chill overnight, so begin this one day ahead.

Look for sweet and flavorful pomegranate molasses at specialty foods stores and Middle Eastern markets.

Kid-size and super-easy to make, these Halloween cupcakes are the perfect festive treats for the holiday.

The slight spiciness of Gala apples and the decadence of homemade caramel sauce pair nicely with a creamy and not too- sweet vanilla rice pudding. Fuji apples would be another good choice for this dessert.

This fall salad balances earthy, tangy, sweet, and creamy flavors.