Trout

'60S THE ANDY GRIFFITH SHOW At the opening of every episode, we see Andy and Opie walking to the creek, fishing rods slung over their shoulders, accompanied by the catchy whistled theme music. Mayberry, North Carolina, offered a welcome respite from the growing complexity of the rest of the world. This simple and delicious recipe is one way that Aunt Bee might have prepared Andy's freshly caught trout. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 40 min

Way up in Maine, in the coastal town of Blue Hill, is Jonathan's, a small place much favored by locals. Owner Jonathan Chase and chef Richard Hanson both love fish, whether from the sea or from freshwater lakes and streams. This colorful main course is good with buttered and dilled new potatoes. Round out the meal with a green salad, and end with a slice of lattice-topped blueberry pie. (If necessary, have the fishmonger bone the trout, or use four small fillets.) Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Martini fans will find that this simple and elegant appetizer goes perfectly with their favorite cocktail.

Complete the menu with roasted potatoes, steamed spinach and butterscotch brownies.

Champagne is the perfect accompaniment for this delicate appetizer.

Active time: 35 min Start to finish:50 min

Although we feature smoked fish in this chowder, the recipe works equally well with fresh fillets of such white fish as cod, haddock, halibut, or snapper.

Steamed spinach and parsleyed baby red potatoes round out this seasonal plate. Chocolate cream pie is always in season.

Chef Tory McPhail writes: "I was 19 years old and just out of culinary school when I first started at Commander's Palace. Despite my training, nothing prepared me for the pressures of working in a fast-paced kitchen, or in a restaurant of such high quality. I think my success came down to sheer effort and a lifelong passion for cooking. Even as a kid I loved playing with cookie and pie dough. "After a seven-year absence, which I spent working abroad and opening a new Commander's Palace restaurant in Las Vegas, I came back to New Orleans last year. Since returning I've enjoyed cooking for my friends. On the weekends we'll go fishing, and then I'll grill our catch and serve it along with a fresh salad. That meal combines the two best things about living in the South — lots of fishing and great fresh produce."

Serve with: Steamed carrots and scalloped potatoes. Dessert: A bakery strawberry tart.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 40 min

Hannah Levitz of Monroe Township, New Jersey, writes: "I first became interested in cooking when my son, Paul, was growing up. He was a picky eater and quite a challenge to cook for. He's married now with children of his own, and thankfully, he has learned to love almost everything I make. When we all get together, I like to do the cooking — it gives my daughter-in-law a break. And because most of my recipes are speedy, I still have time to enjoy my three grandchildren."

Tomato gratin or potato, red pepper, and fennel salad would make a terrific accompaniment to the fish.

Companion recipe to Smoked Fish Trio .