Striped Bass

The warm vinaigrette is a pan sauce that comes together in minutes.

Agrodolce, an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce, combines vinegar and sugar. For tender results, be sure to peel off any leathery outer layers from the shallots.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 30 min

For best results, use a grill basket. It should be big enough for the fish but snug enough to keep the fish and lemon slices from moving around. The one we used in the Bon Appétit test kitchen was 17 by 6 inches.

The <epi:recipelink id="102741">sautéed mushrooms epi:recipelinkawould make a great side dish for this fish, along with steamed green beans or broccoli.</epi:recipelinka></epi:recipelink>

Andrew Engle is the chef at The Laundry in East Hampton, N.Y. This eatery has been a Long Island classic for years. How great that striped bass is available year-round! "If the fish is thinner than 3/4 inch, do not turn it," Andrew says. "Just cook it skin-side down."

Wild striped bass is an incredible delicacy on the order of wild king salmon. To complement its robust flavor and steak-like texture, we serve it with a beautiful and aggressive squid vinaigrette. This is not a dish for people who are on the fence about eating fish.

A 1980 charter signed by 11 restaurants (7 in Marseille) dictates what kinds of fish form the basis of an authentic local bouillabaisse. These are generally unavailable here, so we suggest using the freshest nonoily fish you can get, preferably three to five different kinds. As long as we were taking liberties, we also added lobster and used fennel fronds in place of pastis. And though the broth and croutons are usually served separately from the fish itself in Marseille, we enjoyed everything together. Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr