Shiitake Mushroom

Woodsy shiitake mushrooms, protein-rich chickpeas, and brown rice make this a substantial, satisfying soup.

If you’d like to use fresh peas (you’ll need about a pound for one cup shelled), add them along with the mushrooms.

The combination of sweet, lightly smoked corn and rich, earthy mushrooms is one of the great flavor marriages of Mexican food. In this filling, inspired by one of my favorite salsa recipes in The Great Salsa Book, the fresh corn kernels are dry-roasted to capture the sweet corn flavor and infuse them with an appetizing, smoky perfume. Dry roasting is one of the great culinary techniques that give Mexican cuisine its distinctiveness and meaning, and one easily mastered at home. Very simply and effectively, it intensifies and concentrates flavors and imparts the smoky, primordial quality that is characteristic of so many Mexican dishes. Beyond corn, the technique is also used for garlic, tomatoes, and onions, for fresh and dried chiles, and for seeds and nuts.

This traditional Chinese cooking technique relies on very high heat to quickly cook vegetables, which are small or cut into bite-size pieces and stirred constantly in a hot wok or skillet. They are usually combined with a classic Chinese flavor base such as the ginger, garlic, and scallion in this recipe, in the same way that French and Italian dishes begin with mirepoix or soffritto. Because of the rapid cooking time, the vegetables tend to stay very crisp and retain their vitamins and bright color. Preparing all ingredients before heating your wok or skillet is essential, as it will ensure you can add each at the appropriate time; wash, cut, and store vegetables in separate bowls. Stir-frying relies on even hotter heat than sautéing, which is sometimes attainable only on a commercial-grade cooktop. You’ll get best results at home if you heat the wok for several minutes before adding oil and if you cook different vegetables separately, allowing the pan to heat between batches. If stir-frying a small quantity or one that doesn’t require cooking in batches, add vegetables that will take longest first and those that cook quickest last. Either way, do not overcrowd your pan, or the vegetables will steam rather than sear. For extra browning, press vegetables against the side of the wok for a few seconds with a spatula. Stir-fried dishes are often tossed or served with a sauce, usually made by pouring stock or other flavorings directly to the pan. Sometimes a slurry—a thickening agent made of liquid and cornstarch or flour—is incorporated into the liquid to thicken the sauce. Be sure to bring the slurry to a full boil to activate the thickener, and then to cook for a minute or two to eliminate the starchy taste.

If we were one of those pizzerias that give wacky names to each pie, this mixed mushroom pizza would be called “The Vegas Guys,” or “Peter’s Pizza.” Our editor, Peter Gethers, has a group of guys he goes to Las Vegas with every year for some sort of guy reunion weekend. They meet in Los Angeles and the tradition is that they choose a different restaurant to eat dinner in the night before they leave for Vegas. I’m flattered that for the last few years, they’ve quit chowing around and held their dinner consistently in the private dining room in the Pizzeria, called the Jack Warner Room. They were particularly excited about this pizza. It’s a pretty straightforward mushroom pie, but the fact that we roast the mushrooms before adding them to the pizza, and the combination of taleggio and fontina cheeses that top it, make it especially flavorful.

To clean the mushrooms, simply wipe the caps with a damp paper towel; do not rinse, as they will become soggy. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden.

You can substitute Chinese broccoli with broccolini or dark, leafy greens such as kale, turnip, or mustard greens. Before marinating the tofu, press it as described in step 1 to remove excess moisture.

This recipe can be doubled easily. Use a larger steamer, about ten inches in diameter, to cook all four portions at once in the same basket.

You can purchase a whole roast duck at your local Chinese restaurant. Some varieties of noodles suggest soaking them in boiling water instead of cooking them; check your package instructions before preparing them.

Similar greens—such as yow choy, also known as choy sum (which looks almost identical to bok choy but bears small yellow flowers), broccolini, or even regular broccoli—will work well in this dish if you can’t find Chinese broccoli. You can buy wide rice noodles at Asian grocery stores, or use the narrow rice noodles (often labeled “pad thai noodles”) that many supermarkets carry.

For a velvety smooth texture, pass the soup through a fine strainer after the mixture has been processed and before adding the cream.

This recipe will serve four as a first course or light lunch. To serve the noodles as a meal, add a few cups of diced firm tofu or cooked chicken breast to the simmering broth in step 3.